Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some update pics:

Exhaust modified for Tech Edge Wideband AFR controller insertion

84209660.jpg

Tech Edge:

20863560.jpg

-5 Back turbo bolted in

54873105.jpg

19895316.jpg

Both -5s bolted in:

55665202.jpg

64159670.jpg

OS Giken Cam Gears

40810107.jpg

Fuel Rail, injectors, FPR, Vipec, oil catch can, cam gears, belts etc all going in today/tomorrow.

Dyno Saturday

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Bakes

Are you using one large pod to feed both turbos? I can see a y peice in one photo but it might be something else in frame.

Twin HKS pods. The Y piece you can see is the HKS pipe that goes to the front mount. From the Y the piping splits into two lines to each turbo.

Hi all...just got home

All the turbo's, piping, air filters etc done.

All the fuel system done.

Vipec install done.

Full service done (except coolant as radiator is still out)

Techedge controller wired in and connected.

Bloody balancer bolt is tighter than a fishes alibi...i have a special impact wrench that puts 600ft/lbs of impact torque through the bolt...no love. Have to drop the car down on its wheels and try the old 5th gear, handbrake, footbrake and 1mtr length of pipe over the end of the breaker bar method tomm.

mate with your set up you will push 330rwkw no probs, I have GTSS's and all the other goodies and am running a very safe 436rwhp at only 16 psi.

Proves that if you spend the money on good gear in a well thought out combo you can make good, safe power without throwing gail force winds down the 26's throat

Sounding better and better everyday... just got a nice cheque in the post here so looks like mine will be complete soon too :laugh: Clutch goes in next week then tune on Friday :/

Best of luck, I'm sure you are itching to get her back

New back turbo in place with all piping etc back in:

57192988.jpg

New front turbo in place with all piping etc back in:

10416492.jpg

Hypertune Billet Fuel Rail in with Siemens 750cc Injectors:

80919117.jpg

Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator:

12632613.jpg

OS Giken Cam Gears in Place:

91055736.jpg

Gates timimg Belt, Oil Catch Can, Trust Clear Cam Cover to go in this week.

Dyno Tuning on Saturday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...