Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The window rattles are starting to annoy me now when the window is half down or whatever, has anybody actually taken the time to fix this? I know its a somewhat common problem, and its not a big issue as my windows are rarely "half down" but i like things to be perfect :woot: anyone got any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262436-r34-window-rattles/
Share on other sites

You can adjust those things that reduce the window movement

But its weird, when my window is almost all the way up, it doesnt move that much

Halfway down it does move alot, guess its the shape of the window itself

So if you adjusted it to be tight half way down, it might not even close when you try and wind it up

My 33 rattles when they are fully up.

You can adjust the tension on the little fabric feet things. But be aware that if you do tighten them up too much it puts a bit of strain on the bottom half of the mechanism.

In mine, the little plastic roller balls in the track split. And guess what? You cant replace them. You have to buy a new regulator. Just be careful.

And also if you have tints, think about that. The feed rub against the glass all the time. If you get on the right angle with un tinted glass you can see two perfectly clean lines from where it rubs. I would imagine it wouldnt be too nice on tints if its too tight?

But keeping it to the thread, is there any other ways of adjusting them to stop rattles?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...