Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmm google has no idea.

google seems confused lol

this is of my interest.... not that i would probably do it but it would be such an awesome mod!

Currently in the process of this, LS2 engine and box has been acquired, just waiting on mounting kit from states to arrive then I can get the ball rolling.

google seems confused lol

Currently in the process of this, LS2 engine and box has been acquired, just waiting on mounting kit from states to arrive then I can get the ball rolling.

so engine+gb+mounts

then im assuming a headache for wiring?

Much else?

so engine+gb+mounts

then im assuming a headache for wiring?

Much else?

Not necessarily a headache for me, have a wiring guru that will sort it out so it'll be for him lol

Really need the mounting kit to arrive so engine can be bolted up, new sump on, fuel sytem can be started, exhaust can be started, lines can be made etc etc.

I already know there will be hurdles to overcome but it'll be sorted.

The angering of the Nissan gods for desecrating a Skyline with a single camshafted taxi motor.

lol ohh they're pissed believe me but they'll love the skids!

anyone tried putting the CREE LED's in the reverse light (in a coupe)? Im finding it really difficult reversing in unlit areas at night, especially in areas where theres lots of little obstacles and a little more light would be helpful

If you guys are on FaceBook, request to be added on "V35 Coupe Drivers" group, it's run by American's with G35's but there is A LOT of knowledge to be gained by these guys, you can post questions and pics and get an accurate response most of the time, just like this group.

@Trav i did see guys on that group talking about the reversing LED lights would be an idea to join and ask about it.

lets play a game called... is it gay

audi RS6 rims in grey on a white v35 coupe?

similar link - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19-AUDI-RS6-S-LINE-STYLE-WHEELS-FIT-ALL-AUDI-A3-A4-VW-GOLF-JETTA-PASSAT-/270966131663?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f16d70bcf

i know ill need adaptors and spacers etc

Edited by NORBY

haha size wasnt actually there for reference... im looking into 19s, my factory 18's look way too small in those chunky guards

edit - updated link above to reflect sizing

Edited by NORBY

20" = Uleh / Gay as f**k.

Those 19s - fitment fail. +45 :no:

so much uleh!

I should have just found some actual ones i was looking at, they were 19x9 + 35 (with an adaptor/spacer to 114.3 and 25mm) they'd sit nicely i think.

I meant more peoples opinions on putting audi rims on a nissan...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...