Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyi:how To Replace Speedo Cable? Need Help

cobrAA
 Share

Recommended Posts

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
Posted

So well I broke the little cheap plastic thing when I was changing my light for LED on my cluster. So I ordered my cable from nissan. I searched a lot. and I learn that the cable is connected to the gearbox and pass throught the firewall.

But euh.. does some have picture of where exactly it goes? and how do you disconnect it? Will I have to change the fluid after?

Thanks :D

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I assume this in an R32 ?

There are three bolts to undo in the engine bay, near the steering column. Undo these, pull cable to the left in the cabin, and it will come out from its slot. Pull from the engine bay, making sure now and then it's not getting caught on something. Crawl under car, unclip cable from brackets, unscrew shield from gearbox..

Fit new cable reverse of this.

No you will not have to change your gearbox oil.

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
I assume this in an R32 ?

There are three bolts to undo in the engine bay, near the steering column. Undo these, pull cable to the left in the cabin, and it will come out from its slot. Pull from the engine bay, making sure now and then it's not getting caught on something. Crawl under car, unclip cable from brackets, unscrew shield from gearbox..

Fit new cable reverse of this.

No you will not have to change your gearbox oil.

So I tried to change it today. WASTED 3 HOURS OF MY TIMESicon_ChairShot.gif.

How the heck do you UNBOLT THOSE 3 BOLTS?? Is there a special tools? I can't do it with a tiny screwdriver because I don't have enought force. With a long screwdriver it just wont fit.

And with a ratchet, I don't have enought space to ''wind up''

PLEASE HELP!001_help.gif001_help.gif001_help.gif001_help.gif001_help.gif

My car is a BNR32

Edited by cobrAA
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

You will need a socket, or spanner (I think it's a 10mm) and nimble hands :) but no special tools required. There isn't much room I agree to move around, maybe less so on a GTR.

If you jack up the car, it may be easier to do it from underneath.

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted

Yeah 10mm bolts. 3 of em. ratched with extensions is all you need. The whole plate comes off the firewall. I did have my dash out as I think there is a clip just before it goes into the back of the cluster.

It's a simple job.

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay . 4 hours later. Job is still not done. So I'm down to a 6 hours spent and still not done...

How do you insert the gearbox cable end STRAIGHT??? I spent the last hour trying to bolt it but it will always go too much to the right, too low, too high. It just wont ****in go straight and fit so I can bolt it.

I did insert the metal piece in the hole of the gear box but I just can't bolt the bolt on the gearbox because it is misaligned..

Please Help serioulsy. I'm really about to sell my gtr because of that freakin stupid 70$ mods.

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
umm i thought the cable that fits into the gearbox end has a notch and fits only 1 way.. bugger.. maybe try with the old cable on the gearbox to see how it fitted

For sure it is one way, but since the cable is so ''strech'' it wont hold in place. so it will make my bolt ''offset'' so i can't screw it forward.And the force is so big that I can't hold the cable at the ''right'' place with one hand and screw with the other.

Hope you understand what I mean?

Edited by cobrAA
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted

have u already plugged in the other end to the cluster?? from memory, my cable had a nice loop before coming into the gearbox, certainly wasnt strained like yours??

dont know if gts-t cables are any shorter, maybe wrong cable supplied by nissan.. gts-t ones have few teeths to the gtr so wont work on gtr but not sure if length is different

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...