411rwhp from stock internals

[BOOSTD]

The Engine was built with a fresh R34 bottom end. Not sure if they are stronger, near new would surely help tho.

[Cubes]

Its not a daily driven car.

It uses an R34 Bottom end apparently not sure exactly the difference between the two.

The head has had a little bit of work done to it. It has a Tomi exhaust cam, ecu etc.

Check out their www page it might have more info on there.

But at the end of the day.. WHO REALLY KNOWS!!

Mind you when the drive it on the drift days etc.. they do not run that 400rwkw+ through it as it. They run around the mid 300's.

[Steve]

The 446 was purely to win the dyno comp AFAIK, I was only using it as an example as if they made that sort of power on a dyno (not daily driver) it sort of says that a pull of just over 400hp shouldnt be a problem. Also (heresay) but I have been told numerous stories of guys running in excess of 300rwkw with stock rb25 bottom ends - reliably, mainly from Japan (I know, different fuel, etc)

And as Joel says, they were running mid 300 on the drift day, and as you saw Paul, it went around the track on the rev limiter (several times) and still managed to drive off under its own steam.

Just using example of bottom end strength to put GTSt's mind at ease:D

[Cubes]

It really makes me wonder if I 'Really' need to go forged pistons to have a reliable RB 250-300rwkw.

[Sydneykid]

Hi Joel, our experience with RB25's has been 450 bhp, no more than 1.7 bar boost and very seldom over 7,500 rpm is pretty damn reliable on the standard internals. It really depends a lot on how good the tune is, how well controlled the temperatures are (oil, water and air) and what sort of condition the engine is in in the first place.

That's on pump premium unleaded. if you use a highly oxegenated fuel (Elf Turbomax or LMS for example) then an extra 100 bhp doesn't seem to cause any distress.

Hope that helps

[Roy]

I checked the JMS webiste, it states that 300rwkws odd is achieved using a Trust TD06-25G. For the life of me even allowing for racing fuels and more boost can i see that turbo making that power.

So just curious what turbo setup was capable of such power on an RB25 (a relatively stock one at that...the dyno chart looks a little different.)

[BU5TER]

Roy I know of 2 other RB25det's that have TD06 25g turbos that are making over 300rwkw on pump fuel, I'm more then happy to show you one of them on a dyno even your choice of dyno if you want to pay for the power run

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Sydneykid, The MAP sensor on the wolf is in-built, so all you have to do is run a vaccum line from the plenum to the ECU, even people like me can do that. It is entirely plug'n'play, in the fact that it will work with the standard AFM (or aftermarket) but it does have the bebefit of being able to run MAP if you prefer. It comes with a 2bar map sensor, which can be upgraded to a 3bar MAP sensor if the need arises.

[Cubes]

So how is fuel economy? Have you had a chance to drive it around town for a full tank and monitored the km's?

[Roy]

Yeh Buster i am familiar with your car and have no problem accepting that the TD06-25G is good for 300-330rwkws.

Sorry...

I checked the JMS webiste, it states that 300rwkws odd is achieved using a Trust TD06-25G. For the life of me even allowing for racing fuels and more boost can i see that turbo making that sort of power.

Should have read ... I checked the JMS webiste, it states that 300rwkws odd is achieved using a Trust TD06-25G. For the life of me even allowing for racing fuels and more boost can i see that turbo making the 446rwkws.

Thats what my previous post should have read... so i was not doubting the ability of a TD06-25G to make over 300rwkws, but 446rwkws. So just curious to know what turbo on an RB25 can make that sort of power?

[Cubes]

All comes down to rev's and a set of forged pistons with a decent amount of head work on the rb20 and it should make good power. may be laggy but nothing rev's and a even higher diff ration couldn't sort out.

[Roy]

Looking at the pic of the R33 on the dyno the turbo is definitly not a T88/T78, and a T67 is very similar to a TD06-25G...so doubt they would have changed it for one.

It doesnt look like a HKS3040 either or big Garret or Apexi turbo? So am i right in assuming the thing was still using a TD06-25G for the dyno run?

[rob77]

I'm making 250-260kw @ wheels on a td06-20g with a 16cm exhaust housing. When I get the chance to spend more dosh on the car (probably 6-8 months) I'll wind the boost up and have a crack at 300kw @ wheels.

[sinisteR32]

stop bickering about what does and doesnt make a good representation of power. If u do a mod to u r happy with the increase in power. then thats all there is to it. and if u want to crunch numbers all day long talk about something worth while. like GTR700 (Australia's fastest GTR!!!) At stage 1 (stock bottom end) it was pushing out about 450kW at all 4 wheels. when the engine got pulled apart for more work there was nothing wrong with it. the RB bottom end can take a huge amount of power without complaints.

If u want an accurate comparison of 2 cars put them on the same dyno one after the other. it aint gonna get much more accurate than that.

[Steve]

Nice sinisteR32, I am glad your not a mod.

[Cubes]

lol

[BU5TER]

sinisteR32

mate we're simply discussing what suits us and to be honest we weren't at any point talking about GTR's or RB26's

Roy not a prob I totaly agree with you, it does seem very strange

[GTS-t VSPEC]

When I was at JMS just before the last drift day they said that they had used a different turbo for the 446rwkw, so that would explain it.

[Sydneykid]

Hi GTS-t VSPEC, you posted "run a vacuum line from the plenum to the ECU". Since Steve-SST has declined to reply, can you let me know if you have experienced any delay in response with that length of vacuum hose? I have never been able to test it back to back and I am wondering if anyone else has.

I have tested 2 boost gauges side by side, one with a long vacuum hose and the other with almost none, and there is a noticeable difference in the transient readings. ie; the one with the short hose shows boost before the one with the longer hose. The absolute value is the same, it just takes more time for the air to pressurise the longer hose. This is particularly noticeable on rapid upchanges through the gearbox, say when doing a 1/4 run.

This is one of advantages quoted by Trust for their electronic boost gauges due to no hoses, that being, quicker response to changes. So I am not the only one who has seen this.

This does not show up during a dyno power run when testing a MAP sensor with long hoses as the dyno ramp rate is slow enough to enable the MAP sensor to keep up with boost rise. Plus you don't change gear on the dyno. So it would only show up when driving on the road or track with F&W lambda sensor and display connected. Since we run fuel enrichment under boost, if the MAP sensor is slow in responding you could have (in theory) boost without sufficient fuel until the MAP sensor caught up. I haven't tested it and I was wondering whether anyone else had.

Moving on, I keep seeing quotes saying that two of the big advantages of a Wolf is that you don't have to run AFM's and it is P&P. In my opinion the advantages are mutually exclusive ie; if you run AFM's then it is plug and play, but if you don't want to run AFM's then it is not P&P.

Hope that adds to the post

[Roy]

I think if you are not capable of installing the Wolf yourself then you shouldnt be intalling either the Wolf or the Power Fc in your car.

I still had the AFM installed on my old RB20 despite running a Microtech ECU, as its absence may have aroused ppls suspicions.