Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I'm looking for a turbo for my RB30DET project. My goal is 800 - 850hk on boost, and another 100 - 150hk NOS shot on the 1/4 mile track. (Flywheel HK)

Have 2 garretts and one tubonetics in mind.

GT4094R

GT4294R

Or the new GTK 850hk turbo.

8000 rpms limit, high lift cams etc etc..

Which turbo would be my be my best bet? Want as early spool as possible, but still within my goals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263268-help-to-choose-turbo/
Share on other sites

Whats "hk"?

A to4z will do 800hp if you get the rear housing correct. Cheap, easily available, heaps of parts made to suite - its a pinless procedure :bunny:

hk is horse kower. but I want to know what parts to suite are and how the procedure is pinless? where do the pins normally go in this suite? :down:

Hk is Hp.. Will use HP form now on. hehe.

Have searched, but cant find conclusive info. Especially on the GT-K series.

Im leaning towards the GT4294R, in a 1.01 trim.. How do you think that will boost on the 3 liter? I have seen the GT4294r compared to a HKS t51 kai unit? Is that correct?

If you want the results of those turbos on 3L motors, have a look on www.supraforums.com www.supraforums.com.au and www.mkiv.com. They've got all the results of turbo vs turbo on 3L based motors albeit 2JZ's instead of RB's :down:

I'd lean to a GT4294R for that power level if I were doing it. The GTK turbos I've heard references to being fairly laggy compared to a lot of the other turbos on the market but are probably tough as anything.

I am also leaning towards a GT4294R.. In one of the smaller trims. 1.01 is the one I'm looking the most at.

In the supra forums I cant seem to find that much info on gt4294r.. its either gt4088r they talk about, or waaay bigger (GT45) than my goals. Or HKS.

I think especially talking to people who have gone that crazy, the consensus seems to be that once you are heading for something more drag orientated and if its moving well out of the range of full on street friendly turbos such as the GT3582R and at most the T04Z (on a 3litre) then its best just be accepted you won't be getting much boost pulling from low revs etc you may as well just go for something silly as if you've got bored with 600hp, whats going to stop you getting bored with 800 after a while.

Thats not necessarily my opinion, but I know people who have been there and done that and they tend to feel that way. The GT4294R is a reasonably proven turbo, the GT4094R is marketed to be fantastic but I'm still not 100% sure on it - I've seen contrasting views on them and while they seem that they could be good I don't think they fit into the proved group, hence why I'd go for a GT42R as there are plenty who have made that kind of power with them and on a 3litre it shouldn't be too bad. There were quite a few around a few years ago that had GT4294Rs I think, just pretty sure they went up to GT4202R or bigger. If you want just around the 800hp mark then a GT4094R should get you there and may be a bit more lively under foot on the road - though the impressions I get is they still have the "large turbo" feel about them.

Hi.

Thanks for the replys. :-) I dont care if i need to be over, say 4500 rpms to get some action.

Arrrg its tough to deside.

The rule "get as small a turbo that will meet my demands" is in my mind.. And 800hk is the goal. So maybe I should just try out the GT4094R.. ? The maps for a GT4094R looks like they fit my goal.

The car should be more track day oriented than drag oriented... But its all how you define each? Monday I will try and call the shop were i usually by my turbos, and have talk with them. Monday the turbo will be bought.

The turbonetics GT-K series I have crossed out now.

So the finalist are GT4094R, or the GT4294R. And if using the rule "get the smallest turbo that fit the goal" applies then it should be a GT4094R.

What do you recon?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...