Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why am I hearing that to register a vehicle with an aftermarket FMI, or at least a vehicle that isn't fitted stock with a FMI, you are required to have an engineer's certificate?

The list of PDF files StinkyPoo linked to in the Turbo Timer thread didn't seem to have anything relating to air-intake of the engine, be it Turbos, Superchargers, pod-filters or anything...unless I missed it lol

Anyone got anything solid on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263430-front-mount-intercoolers/
Share on other sites

i was told that you could only have one intake mode.. ie pod filter or intercooler.. not both. if you have more than one you need to get it engineered.

im not saying that the above statement is correct, that is what i was told but the engineer

i got my pod filter engineered because i had to do my coilovers so i thought i might as well do that too. i also got my pedals and boost gauge engineered

That's what I've heard also...So if the only engine mods on a car I'm looking at are FMI and Turbo-back exhaust, it *should* be ok? :wub:

Also, by "engineered" you mean certified, or (re)fitted by an engineer?

Approximately how much that cost?

Thanks

Edited by Trozzle

Yeh, I don't think many cops would pick on you cos it's soo easy to remove a FMIC. Anyways, here is the section of text:

1.1 MODIFICATIONS NOT REQUIRING CERTIFICATION

• Fitting a replacement new, used or reconditioned engine.

• Fitting a manufacturer’s optional engine together with any associated components as supplied by the manufacturer for that same model vehicle.

• Fitting replacement original equipment (or equivalent) engine and exhaust components.

• Fitting replacement original equipment, equivalent or better, components that have no influence on engine performance or emissions. (e.g. higher volume oil pump than original)

In all of the above cases, if the engine is modified, it must be certified under the relevant Approval Code.

1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA APPROVAL CODES

• Fitting equivalent engines (within 20% of original power and engine mass).

• Fitting performance engines.

• Installing a supercharger or turbocharger.

• Modifying engines and engine components.

One reason is that generally to fit a FMIC you need to cut extra holes in your car for pipework.

If you cut holes without reinforcing hole perimeter you have reduced structural integrity of Monocoque chassis..(technically anyway).

Any modifications to car chassis obviously needs to be engineer certified...

There are other regulations that are State dependant...

i used john wilson of AKZ engineering. cost me $550 to engineer my coilovers, pod filter, non standard wheels, boost gauge, aftermarket pedals and turbo timer. it took about a week to get the report back from him andi had no issues getting my car registered. i know some people have had problems with him.. i believe one was naughtyruski

i used john wilson of AKZ engineering. cost me $550 to engineer my coilovers, pod filter, non standard wheels, boost gauge, aftermarket pedals and turbo timer. it took about a week to get the report back from him andi had no issues getting my car registered. i know some people have had problems with him.. i believe one was naughtyruski

I've dealt with John on my previous car modification pre-skyline.. Not going to say anything here.

I went to Ray Spence to get my engineering done (POD, Wheels, FMIC, Exhaust) for $550. Took 8 hours to get the report in my hands (dropped off in the morning, picked up in the arvo). I think it was Mick that actually put me on to Ray Spence (cheers for that).

On the note of needing an engineer's cert for mods, where I read that, it also stated that interstate certificates are sufficient. Would a Queensland "modplate" count for this? If all mods have been certified and the car has been given this "modplate", I'm wondering if that will count enough.

I've dealt with John on my previous car modification pre-skyline.. Not going to say anything here.

I went to Ray Spence to get my engineering done (POD, Wheels, FMIC, Exhaust) for $550. Took 8 hours to get the report in my hands (dropped off in the morning, picked up in the arvo). I think it was Mick that actually put me on to Ray Spence (cheers for that).

x2 about not saying anything, I could say a massive amount.

I highly recommend Ray Spence. :cool:

Called Dickson Motor Registry this arvo, the modplate doesn't count for anything unless it's backed up by signed paperwork...that isn't necessarily a problem at this point, at least all the mods are done properly so getting an engineer's certificate from Ray when I've got the car won't be a trouble...only more money >.<

Other than the engineer's certificate, can anyone see any real reason I shouldn't grab this car while I can? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ht-t242518.html

Currently asking $14000 (plus $521 to send it to Canberra), and it has a new clutch as stated on the last page.

Thanks :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...