Mazda Rx 7 1985 Turbo

[SLEEPR85]

but s14's are pretty cool.

yeah s14's are pretty sexy!

...and Damo, might just have to make an exception for that one.

[Damo_R34]

its a little bit porn

My vote is he saves up a bit more for an S14. If i could afford another car, id buy an S14, bit of a kit, 33gtr rims, win.

[TurboX]

AWD Turbo Stealth Unbreakable 1.8BPT - OUR gearbox is OK!

[-RBD2-]

id tell your little bro to steer clear,rotors are good fun but extremly expensive.not only to run,but to maintain.trust me,im still paying 1 of my old ones off,and i havent seen it in 3 years...ill get another one,one day when i can afford to burn buckets of money for warmth

[gtrkiet]

he actually wants a 32 but havent seen to many around for that price

here you go...

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=374460

and also here...

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=371811

[TALBO]

S14b is the better looking than a S15 imho.....

[Carbon 34]

id confirm the kays of both the engine and chassis. the dash cluster bolts are surrounded with black foam when its installed, so check that to confirm that the chassis k's are accurate. (foam has to be removed to properly remove the cluster). Not true, you can remove it without damage if you know what your doing

ask for receipts for the engine, and try to confirm mileage again, 20B into any rx isnt a huge job, but it isnt particularly regency friendly agree, look to see if the brakes and suspension have been upgraded to suit the weight and additional power of the 20B. Highly doubt any brake upgrades on these cars(remember, a 20B is more than 50% heavier than the original 13B). if the engine is getting close to 100,000km,My road racer made it to over 300,000 miles which is close to 600,000k before a seal failed, breaking off the eccentric shaft gear, car still ran on 1 rotor. prepare for a rebuild (approx $5-7k). a new crate engine from Mazda is half that price only takes a little over a hour to swap one not rushing eitheroil consumption and rotors go hand in hand, so dont worry too much, but as usual, if its blowing oil smoke, avoid it.agree also never use semi/full synthetic oil in it, only use mineral oils and mazda rotory oil.completely wrong, use only synthetic oils after a break in period longer or expect engine failure, oil needs to be changed a lot more often in rotors and checked daily

pivot balls in the s5 boxes tend to be the weak point when youre using a heavy duty clutch (which you would be with a 20B-TT conversion), but replace those with a billet item and the box will last forever. my box never failed even behind a hi power engine, drag races, road races, hot and freezing cold temps, with redline oil in it from 43,000miles on it

also keep in mind that a rotor will never pass an emissions test. a stock rotor will pass a colorado or california emiisions test with fling colours if maintained with CAT the test there is a lot harder to pass then here

and if he does pick it up, tell him to be very particular with his startup and warm down procedures, start it up, let it idle in the drive way for a minute, and when driving, dont rev it any higher than 2,000rpm until youre up to operating temps, when youre finished driving, let it idle for a minute or 2 or 5 depending how hard youve been driving before shutting it down. same as turbos only worse a rotor runs hot, not cooled down it will be a bastard to start the next time you turn it over

try not to drive it short distances, always allow it to get up to operating temps before shutting it down, starting it and shutting it down in small time frame and you run the risk of flooding the engine which can be a huge pain in the ass to clear.agree, rotors love a caining or will fail from carbon buildup on rotors and seals

also, take it to a reputable rotary workshop before purchase (eg, REVS or Mildrens) and have them look over the car with a fine tooth comb and throw it on the dyno. Dyno, maybe but a real test is a Rotor engine compression test, shows the seal conditions on a print out, 6 rotor seals shown on printout for 13b, not a normal compression tester.

happy motoring.

sorry Im still laughing, after owning 13 RX7's myself,DAVE your info is off a tad.????, worked at Mazda in Denver, and Road raced 2 of them, including working with the Mazda Honda shop in Denver on the race car, and Racing Beat and Rod Millen Motorsports in California. who built mine up the first go round.

watch the clutches, they suck, rotary engines dont have much torque, so slipping a clutch is normal on take off.

overheating oil and water is a near instant failure in a rotor engine.

not made for drag abuse, rear end can fail on big tires /high power

rear seal on tranny/ front seal on tranny failures

frozen rusty brakes

bent steering gear, worn steering boxes, leaking power steering

using cheap oil filter will kill engine

oil changes often with records

shocks will be dead unless changed , strut bar mandatory, loose feel without on big tires

coolant flushes often, never run just water

some have LSD some dont, some have drum rear brakes on 85 base models

interior sucks, fades bad, dashes crack, rpm gauges fail a fair bit

hatch airleaks, fumes in the car, seal rubbers can be hard to find to fix

door locks fail, thieves stuff them up a lot

spark plug wires need to be changed to a racing kind with metal ends, or they fail quick

alternators dont like to be spun up to more then 10k, and not very powerful if you run a sound system on it, they tend to blow the rectifyer and overcharging the battery.

must use a proper 3-4 prong or perimitter gap spark plug or they misfire depending on model and turbo tune

accidents can stuff up headlights beyond repair

rust in rear guards behind tires

look for sunroof models on older ones, and the glass roof insert, if street driven, awesome huge sunroof that comes out. race car doesnt matter

decent rims can be hard to find on old 4 bolt pattern

but I highly recommend a RX7 81-85 (not late year78-80), if it has been maintained they can be fun, last a long time if cared for

the newer ones can be create other issues but still a great fun car, still cost too much to buy here in OZ

mine was a prize for 11years, raced often, driven in snow, sold it to friend at 526,000 miles on it, not K's

on second engine after racing a AC cobra the motor failed, never left me stranded

redline,amsoil,mobil 1 used all the time since break in done, normal oil wont even pour at low temps in denver, like mud, but synthetic oil is fine.

lots of parts available in USA to hot one up, cheaper too

my rant

Edited March 31, 2009 by sapphiregraphics

[Carbon 34]

AWD Turbo Stealth Unbreakable 1.8BPT - OUR gearbox is OK!

better choice and not a cop magnet.

older ones like this were faster then the porsche 944 turbo of the year, a bit rare but cool and dependable

[rad100]

doesnt want a rb25det r32, with some goodies? none engine wise.. 13k

[Minibats]

I have owned 2 rotors a turbo and a non turbo. I say they are fun if you have the deep pockets and alot of time, but yes they are cheap at the moment for a RWD Turbo.

Yet I did pick up my 32 4door for $7500 and have seen a couple of 32 2doors for around the same price.

I would suggest shopping around first with a rotor and dont buy the first one. If you need advice or a check up on a car, go speak to Jason at Mildren Automotive at thebarton.. dealt with him the whole time and never had a problem.

[scandyflick]

S14b is the better looking than a S15 imho.....

eh, i reckon youre thinking S14A. the camry styled front end is simply an S14 chassis, the angular front end is an S14A chassis.

[PREISS]

well if your still interested in the end. \my mate has one for sale.

black. blitz wheels etc

[Adz2332]

AWD Turbo Stealth Unbreakable 1.8BPT - OUR gearbox is OK!

sorry what is that????

[Damo_R34]

GTiR pulsar, wait, it looks like a Charade?

[gtrkiet]

GTR

[Madaz]

Its actually a mazda familia

pretty sure same car as gtir

[TALBO]

eh, i reckon youre thinking S14A. the camry styled front end is simply an S14 chassis, the angular front end is an S14A chassis.

Yes, must be 'A' then.

[shy_s6]

GTiR pulsar, wait, it looks like a Charade?

Its actually a mazda familia

pretty sure same car as gtir

are you guys serious or just being sarcastic.. its a completely different car to a GTiR

anyway if your bro doesnt have the money to sav up for a 32 ect he wont have the coin to keep up maintanence on a rota, and unless its had a rebuild i wouldnt touch it.

[gtrkiet]

i said it was a GTR.. familia GTR. =]

[nos man]

how can you tell it's a gtr and not a gtx?

anyway a gtir pulsar is a great little car and all but the gearboxes shit themselves quite easily!