Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 494
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haven't been up there for 5 years myself, so I don't know.

http://www.hinzedamstage3.com/public_notices.php

Western boat ramp is open, on the Nerang Murwillumbah Road.

Natural Bridge is down that way. Not sure what the road surface is like.

http://131940.qld.gov.au/Road-Conditions.aspx?id=92580

Anyhow, make up your own minds.

I'll be on the road Sunday. PM me if you're interested.

hey i was out there last friday night an the dam is still closed...

an the road out to natural bridge is ok to average some sections have been

resurfaced an are nice an smooth an some bits are old an quite rough but over all a good drive..

super street $ 2200

racing logic $ 1700

buddy club $ 1100

all have the same amount of adjustments an same build qaulity..

I got mine for around 1500AUD delivered from japan. After researching the difference between the jap spec and aus spec one, I concluded that its not worth that extra 1000 (quote by fulcrum around 2.5k) for revalving simply because you cant really feel that much of a difference. In any case, a lot of jap spec ones are around the 2k mark locally too which I think its a very heavy mark up by distributors here.

Also another thing worth noting is, I've read somewhere that ONLY Teins are legal when it comes to aftermarket suspension in Australia. If thats true, I wouldnt mind paying that extra 400 for it. Aus or Jap spec doesnt really matter because they're all green visually (if you know what I mean).

  • 2 weeks later...
I got mine for around 1500AUD delivered from japan. After researching the difference between the jap spec and aus spec one, I concluded that its not worth that extra 1000 (quote by fulcrum around 2.5k) for revalving simply because you cant really feel that much of a difference. In any case, a lot of jap spec ones are around the 2k mark locally too which I think its a very heavy mark up by distributors here.

Also another thing worth noting is, I've read somewhere that ONLY Teins are legal when it comes to aftermarket suspension in Australia. If thats true, I wouldnt mind paying that extra 400 for it. Aus or Jap spec doesnt really matter because they're all green visually (if you know what I mean).

Who did you get them through if you don't mind me asking?

have you screwed some more damper in yet...?

Fixed at 14 front and rear. 28turns in total and at the softest, its way better than stock but at the stiffest, its not anymore stiffer than stock.

and height?

That will be fixed next time I'm back from site. Probably drop another 10mm or 20mm from the front as the lowest point of my car would be the front pipe.

Fixed at 14 front and rear. 28turns in total and at the softest, its way better than stock but at the stiffest, its not anymore stiffer than stock.

That will be fixed next time I'm back from site. Probably drop another 10mm or 20mm from the front as the lowest point of my car would be the front pipe.

If your car is at 140 now, 20 will be safe at the front if you're scared of the speed bumps. You could go 40 at the rear though. My exhaust doesn't scrape at all and it's a hell of a lot lower than yours.

There hasnt been 1 yet I believe. Maybe try organizing 1 for next weekend or Friday night. I might be able to make it when I'm back from site. I'll probably be doing the major service on Sat and dont know how long it'll take.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...