Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Checked your oil and made sure the pump is working? We were cruising around in a friends car and it started ticking pretty loudly, we thought nothing of it, then 5 minute later we had a seized engine.

Not meant to scare you, but better to be safe than sorry!

did it all of a sudden come on or has it been a gradual sort of noise over the months/years... It could be a noisy lifter so maybe u should give it an oil flush when changing oils, otherwise maybe it could be the oil pump? Either way i'd check it out asap as rebuilds aren't cool.

Guys,

try the old screwdriver test. What you do is get a long/large screwdriver, with the engine running, CAREFULLY place the blade of the screwdriver against various parts of the engine or on the components bolted to the engine and then place your ear against the butt end of the screwdriver and listen for excessive noises. If you're unsure how loud the noise should be check the same spot on a mates car. Good way to isolate a noise to a certain area.

JUST BE CAREFULL !!!

The NVCS solenoid on my car goes spastic every now and again. Makes a great clicking sound, sounds similar to a popcorn machine at full tilt. Just by holding the back of the solenoid where the plug goes into it stops it, just too lazy to fix this on a more permanent basis.

Originally posted by DoughBoy

just too lazy to fix this on a more permanent basis.

hahahaha i like ur style:D

the ticking whilst cold , as said above is the lack of oil in the top end so lifters will tick.

not too sure with skylines but in the vl , hydraulic lifters always after years of use seem to tick , and take a while to "pump up" when cold.

a water pump most likely wont make noise at idle , it is more a load thing , hold it at 3k revs , in neutral , and listen for a definate clunky noise , more evident than a tick noise.

sounds similar to a thrown big end bearing.

injectors make a constant tick tick tick , be it hot or cold , day or night.

injectors/lifters tick (probably a dupe but i cbf reading all the posts :()

mine does that fairly audible on idle with bonnet popped and head in engine bay, but if its from in the car whilst accelerating, more than likely u got a missing exhaust manifold bolt like me, dont worry about it unless it starts getting worse or the cars feeeling crap/doing something crappily noticeable :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few suggestions: Do you have the option of retarding your exhaust cam gear to bring the power band over to the left? VCT would be turned off after you make peak torque, you see the power/torque will decay faster with it left on all the way to the limiter Once VCT is turned off, you'll find the motor will take a bit more timing being ramped in Send its mum, more boost! Of course, depends on your exhaust pressure.
    • Tow a boat... people won't know wtf is going on 🤣 
    • I was back on the dyno again yesterday after completely revamping my methanol injection system. I was making 440kw at 19psi. Great, this is more then I was making last summer with my old meth system at that pressure, and I figured it would be smooth sailing up to 30+psi. We continued increasing from there and by 25psi, I had only hit 455kw. Dyno sadly lost utility power at this point and I left. We seemed to be on course to hit the same power wall as last summer (477kw@27psi). This is a built RB25 S1 stroked to a 2.8. Built and ported head with Kelford 272/262 cams. Precision 6466 Turbo. Tuner last year believed the power wall is a mix of RPM limitations (Hydro lifters/Limit set at 7600RPM) and fueling. With my new meth system, we're seeing zero knock now but it still won't go up.  What else can I do at this point? Here's my train of thought.  - It's clear from the dyno graph that I would easily make power to 8500+RPM but I'm limited to 7600RPM. I could risk increasing my limiter, but hydro lifters have me worried. What are my options here besides going NEO head or solid lifter conversion? I'm rocking a 1.05AR turbine on my 6466. Would dropping down to a .84 help shift that power down in anyway? - We're only seeing roughly a 30kw difference at the top end with VCT on or off. Is this normal? I want to confirm VCT is working properly. - Should I look into other cam options?  - Should I just keep increasing boost and see if she wakes up later on? I would expect to hit 600rwkw around 35psi with my 6466.   
    • First thought is to use a ram mount (to hold the ipad) + windscreen suction mount. The arms on the ram mount can be as long as you like, should be able to position the ipad pretty well with that setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...