Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I tried to run a fast on this VIN: 6T91MPAAASXBDR002. Its an R33 GTR 1995 White car.

The vin is very strange for a skyline. they usually start with 6U9000 and i am very worried.

Can anyone shed any light as to why the VIN would appear above and not start with the common import code for r33's?

Need urgent help

Thanks

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264768-r33-gtr-vin-problemimport/
Share on other sites

That car would have been imported a while back when they used new semi-random 17 digit VIN numbers for imported cars ... a number of years ago they changed to the standard 6U9000XXXXXXXXXXX format ... in any case you should be looking for the original Japanese VIN number stamped on the filrewall to run it through FAST, it will be something like BCNR33-00XXXX

Thats the compliance plate, the nissan vin is usually on the firewall on the drivers side and its blue.

Yeah, but why have they complienced it with a really weird complience plate? It usually reflects the VIN...

Can anyone help me?

Did a Revs check on the car and it came up with 6T91MPAAASXBDR002. Usually comes up with something like (and this is an example) - 6U900BCNR33000964.

Anyone had this problem before? Does it mean its been rebirthed? Anyone?

Yeah, but why have they complienced it with a really weird complience plate? It usually reflects the VIN...

Can anyone help me?

Did a Revs check on the car and it came up with 6T91MPAAASXBDR002. Usually comes up with something like (and this is an example) - 6U900BCNR33000964.

Anyone had this problem before? Does it mean its been rebirthed? Anyone?

This was a pre 2000 complied car, the Green compliance plate. Bank then VIN numbers were issued by state RTA authorities not DOTARS.

For Victoria all imports started with 6T91MPV.... you one starts with 6T91MPA so it was complied in another state most likely the ACT.

Compliance was a whole different ball game back in those days, you will notice you seat belts would have been changed too which they don't do anymore.

This was a pre 2000 complied car, the Green compliance plate. Bank then VIN numbers were issued by state RTA authorities not DOTARS.

For Victoria all imports started with 6T91MPV.... you one starts with 6T91MPA so it was complied in another state most likely the ACT.

Compliance was a whole different ball game back in those days, you will notice you seat belts would have been changed too which they don't do anymore.

Thanks for clearing this up carizma. I was very worried that something odd was going on.

Very much appreciated.

FYI - it appears car was registered in QLD first.

  • 1 year later...

you are also confusing "VIN" with "chassis number" the number you want to use in fast is the chassis number. it's the one on the build plate. the "VIN" is allocated in australia when the car is complied and as you can see they have not always followed the same pattern. these days yes it's a combination of the chassis number (which vary in length)prefixed with 6U9 and then a number of 0's to take the total number of digits up to 17. Under different schemes they were created differently as mentioned above. Chassis number and VIN are 2 different things.

lol, :blush: nfi what I was thinking.... now let me just quietly delete my posts, then edit your post with my text and it'll look like you're the dummy who revived the 2 year old long dead thread..... :ermm:

  • 1 month later...

Ah the joys of being a moderator haha

I also came across a car that is not using the original BCNR33 number, instead its number listed on the rego papers starts with 6M91mport - so thanks to this thread I'm more relaxed now - car was complied in ACT.

well glad that helped someone. :) but yeah the VIN numbers do not always contain the chassis numbers. so it's not unusual to see one with 6T91MP or 6M91MP etc. you can always get the chassis number off the original nissan build plate though. it should still be there. the old system was stupid. it's far better what they do now where they just re-use the chassis number and prefix it with 6U9 and 0's to make it fit our 17digit VIN format.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...