Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey man, very nice job and glad you are happy with it

seeing that has changed my opinion on owning a black car if they can get it looking that schmick, the reason I've always gone gunmetal/silver with my cars is not only do I like the look, you can get away with most paint marks and swirls until you get really up close :D

PS

are your stockies powdercoated? Where did you get it done as I am looking to get mine done in a similar finish, was gonna hold off doing it as I like the alloy look, but I put some pretty harsh curb rash on my wheels the other day :)

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Yo-Yo! Thanks man glad you like`em.

Yeh tell me about it, owning a black car...they look shmick and all but little things is so noticable.. hehe just gotta put a little more effort i guess...

Yup my stock 18's are resprayed. ill ask my dealer about it because they have a painter/workshop that looks after their cars. I use to have the gunmental wheels also, when i got them its got some fugly rashes on them so i asked them to respray it black for me.

with your one, im pretty sure you can always fix the rash on your wheels and restore its orignal gunmetal/silver look. Not 100% sure how good it would turn out tho.. since its a brighter color and all...

anyway call these guys see if they can do something about it. Peace!

http://www.touchupguys.com.au/owner/photogallery_p3.php

to fix your rims

go see peter @ custom wheel repairs in lansvale.

he has fixed many many many rims for me and can respray them too.

i fixed up a set of advans 2 years ago and got the gutter rash all fixed, a slight buckle removed, and finally all sprayed in gloss black

hey mark do you have Peters number available? just for future reference...

you saved me there actually.. lol i was fairly hesitant to give the Touch up guys contacts to Yo-yo.. they are like last resort sort of thing...

Also in terms of fixing the wheels..do you leave your car on-site or its a 1 day thing for them? because ill never leave my car overnight to a paintshop ever again!.... had enough of those overspray...

  • 2 months later...

ok so its been about 3 months and couple of weeks, i washed the car today and im stil smiling, the shine is still there!

ofcourse couple of micro thin scratches, but we cant really avoid them can we?! unless you have a white car to hide it. =)

To PJ, any news with your ride? :D

The OEM wheels and grille in black looks really really nice. Gives it a really aggresive look plus the wheels look similar to oz racing superleggeras...or was it ultraleggeras. I say do it hehe! Only problem i can think of would be the rear not being "tough enough" to match the side and front on view. The rears of the 370gt looks really luxo.

ok so its been about 3 months and couple of weeks, i washed the car today and im stil smiling, the shine is still there!

ofcourse couple of micro thin scratches, but we cant really avoid them can we?! unless you have a white car to hide it. =)

To PJ, any news with your ride? :P

That's a beautiful finish on the car, and Mark is a top bloke as well. He was very helpful when I made enquiries with him years ago. I wanted to use his services back then but because he was booked up for weeks, I decided to learn to detail myself.

By the way, did he put a synthetic sealant on the paintwork before the final wax? A sealant is what gives durability to all that hard work. If there's no sealant, all that polishing effort will be wasted as once the wax evaporates, your paint will be again exposed to the elements.

Hey man, no he didnt but I know he used another grade of Concorso wax before he applied the final wax. The first wax he used smelt like strawberry, final wax smelt like Ice cream.

David did not recommed the sealant to be used on my paintwork, he personally preffered it to be waxed as he noticed the paint work on V's is very delicate.

So I just went ahead with his suggestions.

  • 2 years later...

It will last if you want to make it last.

mine is still good man.. im just after an "enhancement" (minor paint correction) by using the rotary machine... not full car detail for now as everything else is still pretty much in good condition.

It will last if you want to make it last.

mine is still good man.. im just after an "enhancement" (minor paint correction) by using the rotary machine... not full car detail for now as everything else is still pretty much in good condition.

Looks just like mine should! Mine has some really nasty swirl marks and after spending days doing it by hand it looks good for a few washes only. I wouldn't use an orbital on it myself as this should be left to the pro guys.

I'm going to get mine done. Can anyone recommend anyone as good as Dr. Detail in Melbourne??? $350 is well worth it if the paint looks this good after.

Cheers

Looks just like mine should! Mine has some really nasty swirl marks and after spending days doing it by hand it looks good for a few washes only. I wouldn't use an orbital on it myself as this should be left to the pro guys.

I'm going to get mine done. Can anyone recommend anyone as good as Dr. Detail in Melbourne??? $350 is well worth it if the paint looks this good after.

Cheers

Paintwerks in Moorabbin may be a good option. Never had my car detailed there but I intend to one day. Had my lakeshore slate front bar sprayed there and they did a great job on the paint match considering it is not an easy colour to match. The bloke who runs the joint is an absolute paint buff, knows his stuff and detailing is part of their main business (more a paint specialist than a panel shop)

Have heard of a place in the northern suburbs (have their own forum) but can't for the life of me think of what they are called. Plenty of guys on various forums swear by them too.

Edited by MSKYO

Hey Chris, check out www.detailparadise.com.au under Pro-Detailers Show and Shine forum.

youll see well known detailers around the state and their work in that forum. Some tho are not as active as others but they are registered if you search for pro-detailers around your state.

hey vee35, sorry, when i meant "minor detail" its because i had mine already done 2 years ago, so i know personally that my paintwork is still pretty good. Most pro detailers offer "2 stage paint correction" which is about minimum 4 hours ($350 and up), and mainly caters for those cars that is quite old or full of swirls.

Having said that, Dr.Detail works on your paintwork regardles of needing 1 stage or 2 stage paint correction for $350 - $400 including interior. which is pretty good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...