Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks like its an option on the JDM ones so if yours is JDM then its a dealer fit.

that said I'm digging through ADM and JDM FAST now for the correct bits :banana:

been asked to modify one of these cars and my intent is with OE bits.

questions - ask :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265086-reverse-camera-anyone/
Share on other sites

will do. I have read all the threads on NAGTROC already and it looks like we have an advantage.

once I sort it I'll let everyone know :P

I'm making a call to tokyo in the morn to verify parts costs - if its not too scary (I'm used to buying parts on CPV35 versions) then I'll grab all the bits needed.

stay tuned.

ok camera is doable- anything you read on the NAGTROC site DOES NOT apply to this car. its entirely different underneath. I'm still trying to convince a local dealer who's not scared shitless of the main company to get me a ADM service manual for this car. I have the USDM one and I'm working on the JDM one.

at this stage the exercise using OEM GTR bits runs $1500 approx. aftermarket will be a LOT less but it will involve fiddling on my behalf to do it.

if anyone has tied with Nissan Oz I'm all ears..

  • 1 month later...

OOPS!!!

nissan's not going to like me - I modified one *just* a little bit.

DSC_3227.JPG

one red GTR

(this is a MLB car and the owner's permission has been sought. I was flown down to do this car)

DSC_3240.JPG

Stock System as it was set up by the owner

DSC_3237.JPG

DSC_3241.JPG

Navigation - local style .

Forget reworking the OEM system - its entirely different to the 370Z. I have proved that already. USDM is the same idea. second image is the inbuilt computer

DSC_3239.JPG

Rear Camera

there is a front one as well tied to this.

Camera Locations:

DSC_3243.JPG

Rear camera. you cannot see it but it can definitely see 1 meter back behind the car

DSC_3245.JPG

Front Camera. visible from literal head on but not visible otherwise.

only image missing is the ipod unit and we did that as well.

A WARNING TO ALL WHO TINKER AND PULL THIS CAR APART!

this car will know if something has been pulled out - pulling the battery will not help- it will set flags. as it is I have to update my scan tool. this car had to go to nissan for a reset after all of this. for me it will not be a problem in the future.

want it done :

Melbourne

Stylyn Car Audio - Boronia

03-9739-8866 - Adam

www.stylyn.com

Brisbane

Audio Express

07-3256-7741

0407-102-839 - Chris

www.audioexpress.com.au

now who's game ?

Edited by Chris Rogers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...