Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale is some stuff I don't need anymore

-6 x 1600cc injectors (unknown brand) fit stock GTR plug - 11mm - $1200 Cost me $1800

-Carbon fibre RB26 coilpack and cam covers like new - $400 Cost me $650

-Nismo pull type 13/16" clutch slave cylinder - $140 Cost me $250

-HKS Kansai R33 GT-R ET-S controller with harness to plug in - no cutting - $450 Cost me $600! extremely rare

Postage included for the prices above.

Injectors have recently been cleaned and flow tested in Adelaide and will come with test report confirming flow specs and new o-rings and insulators.

HKS ET-S controller is like new and is fully illuminated.

Nismo slave not needed as I've changed to a push setup on my R33.

All quality stuff. Get a bargain

Contact me on 0401 779 905 and ask for Ben.

Edited by BK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265417-rb26-parts-for-sale-all-barely-used/
Share on other sites

No. Full carbon fibre construction, light as compared to stock ones. I'll try and get some pictures of everything up tonight.

HKS Kansai R33 GTR ET-S controller PRICE DROP TO $350

GTC Carbon fibre coilpack and timing belt cover

Nismo pull type clutch slave cylinder

Will consider all serious offers. Cheers

How come the controller doesn't suit other models of GTR ??

Because the Attesa control parameters are different on all GTR models. R32 has 4 times per second feedback with no yaw rate, R33 has 100 and v-spec has 500 with yaw rate feedback added to the R33s. Not sure about the R34s. Maybe the g-sensors are a totally different unit for them. It does say on the instructions it is only for R33 and you can buy a specific R32 version also for them from HKS.

Edited by BK

That would be a no.

I'll post this because of the amount of people sending PMs asking whether you can put the 33 in RWD mode with the torque split controller. The R33/R34 you cannot safely put into RWD mode electrically, only R32s. I though everyone would know this by now. The only way to safely RWD a R33 is to modify the hydraulic line going to the transfer case actuator so that it has absolutely no pressure at the actuator piston. This will safely and totally disengage the transfer case, otherwise you will wreck your transfer case just by disabling the electrical control by the attesa computer.

That's why you remove your front tailshaft when dynoing on a 2WD dyno with R33/R34 GTRs.

Hope this clears everything up for everyone.

By the way, I'll take $1000 for the massive 1600cc injectors. They are the only ones I've ever seen that plug directly into the GTR injector loom. Need an 11mm fuel rail though. I'll will have pictures of them once I've removed from my R32, they've only done 9 months at the strip only.

Edited by BK

Carbon fibre covers sold pending payment

Others still for sale.

Come on some one must need some massive injectors for their GTR ?

Edited by BK

-Carbon covers sold pending payment

-HKS torque splitter sold pending payment

1600cc injectors and Nismo pull slave cylinder still available

-HKS ETS controller sold and gone !

-Injectors and corbon covers sold still pending payment

Nismo pull slave cylinder still available

Also up for sale now is another torque split controller with 2WD/4WD switch. Torque split works on all GTR but 2WD switch part should only be activated on R32. $210 express posted anywhere in Australia.

  • 2 weeks later...

-Nismo slave cylinder sold and gone !

-Injectors and carbon covers still pending payment

-TCS torque split controller still available

Hi again. I'm putting injectors and carbon covers back up for sale because of the peanut who won't pay up or respond to messages. What the hell is wrong with some people ? If you want something be prepared to actually pay for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...