Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the issue isnt plug and play or the loom

the issue is the gearbox logic is inside the main ecu

so when you remove the standard ecu and install an aftermarket one

you throw all of the autobox logic code in the bin - ie; the ecu is a manual one

so the gearbox doesnt get a rest from the engine on gear change

your best solution is to piggyback something onto the current ecu

that way you get most of what you want and you retain the auto logic control

other models such as toyota have the auto logic in another ECU

so you can actually get auto powerfc versions etc

the chaser has an auto powerfc version and the setup looks ace

your able to edit the entire auto setup and how the gearchanges work

no you cant use an auto powerfc from another car, its a completely different setup, dont even bother trying to think about this one

so forget that one

piggybacking is easy and most workshops can do this

safc is piggyback, emanage is piggyback, some workshops can even remap the R34 GTT ECU (good idea, but costly)

if it was me i would do consider the following in order of preference

1. safc afc or afc neo

2. remap of r34 GTT ecu

3. nistune or emanage

the safc / afc are cheap and bulletproof

remap will be around $1000 ish all up

nistune / emanage maybe $800 ish

Thanks for your answer.. i already have an safc, but i do not know how much can i get out of it since i have no control of timing.. If i want to go at 600-700 hp i don't think i would be able to do it with safc, e-manage ultimate seems a more adequate solution..

Thanks for your answer.. i already have an safc, but i do not know how much can i get out of it since i have no control of timing.. If i want to go at 600-700 hp i don't think i would be able to do it with safc, e-manage ultimate seems a more adequate solution..

man if your goin for that sort of power, get the gearbox rebuilt, get a shift kit and then you can use a stand alone ECU :P

not to mention the numerous other amounts of problems your going to have with this engine going for that kinda power. Your gana need a plenum and TB, your gana need to remove the TCS, then your up for a stand alone ECU again. If you chasing that kinda power, get the gearbox rebuilt with a shift kit, power fc or haltech or wahtever tickles your fancy a decent stall kit and you will be set to go.

Edited by Sammy34

Ok so i have 2 ways, 1 go manual and use a standalone, 2 install a shift kit and use standalone, i want to know the costs of those 2.. though the 2 requires a rebuilt in the transmition.. Ok i will search for these..

Thank you all!!

You are very quick and full of informations! :down:

your current setup when the gearbox needs to change gears the ECU backs off the ignition timing so the gearbox can change freely

your issue, is - when you change the ECU - it (the new ECU) does not back off the igition timing as its a manual ECU (all aftermarket options for R34 GTT are manual)

so on gearchange the box doesnt get a rest from the engine so it would likely flare up and put stress on the gearbox

installing a shift kit does not fix the problem, in makes it worse

the shift kits makes the changes quicker and stronger, this amplifies the impact to the gearbox as it still doesnt get a rest from the engine on gearchange

so your options are

change to a manual gearbox

change to a mechanical autobox (ie one that doesnt need electronic change patterns) - from memory the vl turbo jatco box works like that, doesnt need auto-electronic ECU signals

judging by the above, its probably cheaper and easier to sell your car and buy a manual GTT then modify from there

Well because i'm in the process of a VQ30DETT engine conversion I had to get some custom parts like bellhousing adaptor plate and such.

I used a R33 GTST gearbox, and an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

You'll need a fair amount of parts; pedal, plastics, new dash, rar rar rar.

Well because i'm in the process of a VQ30DETT engine conversion I had to get some custom parts like bellhousing adaptor plate and such.

I used a R33 GTST gearbox, and an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

You'll need a fair amount of parts; pedal, plastics, new dash, rar rar rar.

By dash do you mean the whole dash or just the center console?

my dash I meant you can replace the speedo etc if you want, because the auto one says P, D, N, 1, 2, 3. I purchased a Nismo 320 KM/h Dash for $700.

Only centre console bit i replaced was the gear stick surround.

Oh i see, and i like this nismo speedo! So except the inside of the car what else will i need? Transmision box, axle, and???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...