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  • 3 months later...

hey guys, just bumping for a quick question which others may also find useful.

could I do this procedure if my 33 is running the Apexi Power FC?

My ABS dash light has been on ever since I bought the car!

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys, just bumping for a quick question which others may also find useful.

could I do this procedure if my 33 is running the Apexi Power FC?

My ABS dash light has been on ever since I bought the car!

I'm guessing that for non Power FC related functions it's probably work, I wouldn't go trying it though. Esp the ecu reset, might muck up... something lol.

so once u clear the codes it should flash 5 & 5

Yep yep, 55 means all is good.

  • 3 weeks later...

ive got a code 54 in my r34 n/a 5 speed how do i fix it when my cars manual?? ive been searching all day

Might be worth referring to your specific car's manual. Was it manual from factory? If you're just referring to the first post in this thread, could A/T mean anything different?

  • 2 weeks later...

Eep, after reading this forum post, i downloaded ecutalk, bought the ecutalk usb consult cable(which was absolutely for dummies to setup), unfortunately my fault code got wiped when we installed the stereo, so i had to wait for it.

now its back! its a Code 33, O2S1 (0 starts), all i can figure it would be, is my o2 sensor is ballzup, so i went for a leisurely cruise, and noticed something odd, my o2 sensor voltage starts at.3v and slowly drops to .13v, it occasionally jumps back up to about .15 .16v then just hovers back at .13, is that unusual? i thought it should be jumping around a little in readings, like when i floor it, or granny it around teh burbs.

anyone who has had this error and has a good fix any advice? or should i just yank out the o2 sensor, and drop in an ntk replacement?

  • 3 weeks later...

Eep, after reading this forum post, i downloaded ecutalk, bought the ecutalk usb consult cable(which was absolutely for dummies to setup), unfortunately my fault code got wiped when we installed the stereo, so i had to wait for it.

now its back! its a Code 33, O2S1 (0 starts), all i can figure it would be, is my o2 sensor is ballzup, so i went for a leisurely cruise, and noticed something odd, my o2 sensor voltage starts at.3v and slowly drops to .13v, it occasionally jumps back up to about .15 .16v then just hovers back at .13, is that unusual? i thought it should be jumping around a little in readings, like when i floor it, or granny it around teh burbs.

anyone who has had this error and has a good fix any advice? or should i just yank out the o2 sensor, and drop in an ntk replacement?

i just got the same error 33. did you figure out what to do?

  • 2 months later...

Same- i got the same error - reset it so its not there no and the check engine light has stopped lighting for now.. will go around the block to test later tonight

but anyone with a fix could share his/her experiences pls :D

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Just to note, it seems the error codes flash in a slow/fast combination to help distinguish between each sequential code. At least they do for me on a '99 S2 Stagea (RB25DET Neo).

An example of my case:

2 slow, 1 fast (although I couldn't really detect it was fast because there was only one flash)

3 slow, 3 fast

its a Code 33, O2S1 (0 starts)...

anyone who has had this error and has a good fix any advice? or should i just yank out the o2 sensor, and drop in an ntk replacement?

I'm getting the same error:

33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor

Did any of you folks figure out the cause for this?

Is it just a matter of replacing the HeatedO2 sensor?

This would match up with some of the symptoms I am experiencing:

Fuel vapour from exhaust under acceleration

Very high fuel usage: 18-19L/100km.

Found this info [goldmine]:

http://www.permoveo....an/Default.aspx

HO2S Heater Control Circuit

What does this mean?

OBD Code P0030refers to

Oxygen Sensors (O2S) or Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) need to reach a minimum operating temperature of 750 degrees F to produce an accurate voltage signal. The faster the heated oxygen sensor reaches that temperature the faster the sensor will start sending an accurate signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). In order to achieve the require temperature, a heater element is included inside the heated oxygen sensor. The ECM controls the heated oxygen sensor heater element based on signals from the engine coolant temperature and engine load. The ECM controls the heater element circuit by allowing current flow to ground. The ECM monitors the voltage signal received through the heater element circuit and determines the state of the circuit by comparing the voltage detected with the factory specifications.

Symptoms

Possible sumptoms of OBD code P0030

- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Engine may be running rich - Fuel vapour from Exhaust - Low MPG

Causes

Possible causes of OBD code P0030

- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit open shorted to ground - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit - Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit fuse - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) The Error code is generally activated on detection of the following conditions: The P0030 is set when the ECM detects an open or shorted to ground condition on the heated oxygen sensor heater circuit

Possible Solutions

The code means that there is a problem with the heater element circuit of the heated oxygen sensor. Water getting inside the heated oxygen sensor connector can caused the heated oxygen sensor fuse to blow, which is a very common problem for this type codes. Before replacing the sensor, check for the condition of the heated oxygen sensor fuse and connectors. HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the generic definition for the P0030; however your vehicle's manufacturer may have a different definition and information for the P0030 code.

Also getting the21 - Ignition Signal.

I'm replacing the coil packs for this with YellowJackets from PerformanceWise. Will see if that fixes the issue for .

  • 8 months later...

Hi i've got an R33, and i've read and done what's been written here but my ECU is showing 55 so no faults, but the car is running like a bag of s--t when i accelerate, i suspect it could be the coil packs, but it's an expensive guess if i'm wrong,

any ideas to help me please.

Robbo.

try changing the spark plugs (if you don't know how old they are), or if they aren't that old, try reducing the gap. if this helps with the issue a bit then you know it's the coils

Thanks, yeh i changed the plugs tonight, and it's a lot better but it still feels like it's missing/holding back when at about 5000 revs,

I cleaned the old plugs last week but they were black when i took them out tonight.

So it's looking like the coils.

Cheers Robbo.

if they were black then it may be that the coils are a bit weak, but it may be that it is running a bit rich. might be worth getting a dyno run done first (certainly cheaper than new coils)

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