Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

So has anyone had any experience with the new (I presume) GCG turbo for the RB25?

GCG code = XTR-GTST-GT3071R

specs are based on cropped turbine garret 3071 in a 0.7 rear housing that bolts up to standard dump.

XTRGTST-GT3071R 700177

front = 71.0mm 56 0.50

rear = 56.5mm 84 0.70 Int-Wastegated

My fears that this turbo would boost creep like the 3071 with the 0.64 rear housing?

Purpose would be for a stock RB25 running 0.9 to 1.0bar. Goal is to achieve ~ 230rwkw with wide power band.

Would the 0.7 rear housing be large enough to allow this flow without boost creep or being too sensitive to throttle ?

On another note what is the A/R of the stock R33 rear housing?

post-23086-1240455447_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266708-new-ish-gcg-3071-based-gtst-turbo/
Share on other sites

i just enquired about this turbo. they dont do it anymore. this is GCG's response.

We don't do that turbocharger anymore as we found the GTS-T style exhaust housing was too restricting when pushing over 15psi of boost. We use a genuine Garrett exhaust housing and supply a dump pipe with the kit.
Edited by Munkyb0y

yes i did lol

Total price on this kit is $3070.00 Inc GST. This uncludes:

-GT3071R Turbocharger (450hp)

-20mm Spacer Plate

-Gaskets

-Studs & Nuts

-Silicon Elbow 2" to 2.5" 90 Degree

-Oil & Water line kit

-Stainless Split Dump Pipe to suit factory or aftermarket front pipe.

The ONLY thing you need to do after fitment of this kit is make an air inlet pipe.

LOL I rang them about the same thing today, 3071 or 3076 for $3070 complete kit(except for intake pipe)

For your aim get hypergear or someone to put a GT2871 52trim CHRA into an r34(OP6) housing! around 1550 bolt on

Edited by Ryan1600
$3070 is a bit rich.

I'd really like a 3071 with 0.82 internal gate rear. I'm thinking that 230rwkw would be really pushing a 2871.

Once you factor in a spacer, dump pipe and so on, its actually pretty decent pricing and a true bolt on.

1500 for a hyper gear (if its bush bearing) vs 2100 (ball bearing) - no braining where to spend the $$$

Once you factor in a spacer, dump pipe and so on, its actually pretty decent pricing and a true bolt on.

1500 for a hyper gear (if its bush bearing) vs 2100 (ball bearing) - no braining where to spend the $$$

1500 for a BB 2871 52 trim AKA GTRS SPEC, not the hypergear core, a garrett core... which should do 230 easy

hypergear spec starts at 800

Edited by Ryan1600

simonr32 ran one with very good results.

There were slight creep issues which were resolved by opening up the port slightly (retaining the same flap from memory) and possibly changing the dump. he made somewhere in the 280rwkw range.

Overall they are a good unit, same cart as the hks 2835 proS.

If you are going the uncropped turbine 3071 and want to retain IW then .82. Don't .63 it.

simonr32 ran one with very good results.

There were slight creep issues which were resolved by opening up the port slightly (retaining the same flap from memory) and possibly changing the dump. he made somewhere in the 280rwkw range.

Overall they are a good unit, same cart as the hks 2835 proS.

If you are going the uncropped turbine 3071 and want to retain IW then .82. Don't .63 it.

yeah when GCG did those they were almost identical to a 2835...

$3070 is a bit rich.

I'd really like a 3071 with 0.82 internal gate rear. I'm thinking that 230rwkw would be really pushing a 2871.

MTQ engine systems can hook ya up and fit a larger gate aswell. i have no boost control issues with a .82

Ive left it in ATS's hands to build my garrett gt30 using a large 6bolt nissan housing (modified op6 I think) and front 45v3 housing, highly modified plus longer snout

they rate it at 270rwkw and stated several times on different days, different employees, that it had FAR less lag than the GCG equivalent highflow turbo.

will post specs and details when I get the GT30 next week with new lines.

Yeah I've pretty much settled on 2871 based highflow in OP6 housing. Now I'm looking around for an OP6 housing - it's taking some looking that's for sure.

A mate had 2 of these about 18months ago....sold both.

i just bought one of these off CRD

* Garrett GT3071R with 70mm inlet and 0.64 A/R turbine housing (genuine Garrett housings)

* T2 to T3 flange adapter flange / turbo spacer

* Gasket kit

* T3 gasket

* Stud kit turbine inlet

* Stud kit turbine outlet

* Oil drain tube and gasket

* Oil drain hose

* Hose clamps

* Oil inlet fitting

* Copper washers

* Actuator bracket

* 12 psi Actuator

* Oil lines

* Water lines

* Water line adapter fitting

* High temp ceramic coated twin outlet dump / engine pipe suit Garrett turbine housing

TOTAL KIT PRICE $2470.00

and the silicone elbow for another $100. its a modified gt3071r with all the genuine garret housings, CRD have tinkered with the housing sizes and they say have found the best combo for an rb25det! lose practically no response and gain a shitload of power! iv ordered one and should be here within the week!

I have the 3071 with .82 housing and have maxed out the compressor at 264rwkw. Sure, there may be a couple of kilo watts in there still but that's pretty much all you'll get. The modified RB25 turbos are vastly overated and I only wish I could have all my money back over the three years I spent trying to get the 250-270 kws everybody said they are good for. They are crap. Not just me either as I have spoken to others that failed to hit more than 220-230.

Daniel I hate to say it but I think your going to be so disappointed in that turbo as it is not much different to the standard turbo. Existance, your on the right track but you will realise that there may be issues with boost control with the .64 housing. If you can get them to open up the wastegate and install a bigger flap. That turbo should be ok for 260 but the turbine housing is the limiting factor. With the bigger wastegate it will flow more exhaust and be fully capable of maximum compressor flow.

really? how can the smaller housing cause boost creep? :blush: i did so much reading before i paid for it and didnt find anyone with this problem.

the guys from crd said they had done alot of testing and fiddling etc. surely they would have noticed something as serious as boost creep?

iv got all the supporting mods to hit 250rwkw, that is my goal for 16psi and ill be happy ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...