Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nah i dont have any problem with that

its the damn gay ass telstra tool bar with uptodate usage meter...its not up to date all the time! and doesnt dispense gold out of my computer! what the hell?!?!?!

hehe

when did u go get dyno? (cant reply going bed now)

you loose approx 9 kw from the auto box.

My Dyno result was a 203 rwkw on 13psi.

But i have the following.

Fuel pump

T04e/gts-r exhaust manifold

ARC front mount

3" zorst

and i think a slight possibility of a modded diff/gearbox (but i have no idea on that one)

Looking at your graph that's a very typical shape.

I've seen that shape out of a number of cars with similar mods.

BUT at the end of the day, all you use it for is to compare the next time you do more mods, on compare as a group on a dyno day.

If you do another mod (say a cooler) and get it re-tuned then you compare that with your previous figure/graph and go from there. Just because you made 127rwkw means nothing.

It has nothing to do with 'whos' dyno is more accurate, or reads higher.

As long as you use it for a base of comparison and use that dyno consistently. Chopping and changing dyno's doesnt help as figures and readings will vary

hope that clarifies.

ash

hey guys, i was wondering would this have anything got to do with the AFM? haven't checked if they are clean etc.. oh almost forgot , also have K&N Panel filter.. car just done 86,000km , close to change timing belt and fuel pump. Would this help increase some rwkw?

Thanks for all your feedbacks ppl. Much appreciated... :)

If its auto it explains the 10-20rwkw loss. Depends on the condition of the auto as well, if its slightly shagged it'll slip a little under high revs..

Anyhow, who cares about dyno figures.. as long as the car feels harder and runs a good 1/4 mile time then i wouldn't worry too much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...