Jump to content
SAU Community

Greddy Breather Tank

im late

By im late,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

im late Proficient

im late

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

I have finally bothered to try and install my GReddy Breather Tank (for those people that reckon it's not needed, that is irrelevant to this post as I want to install what I already have bought) :/

As usual all instructions are in Jap. So I did a bit of searching and came up with the English translation of the connection diagram on the back of the packaging:

BreatherTank.jpg

Now every connection makes sense except one. The one the needs a feed from the top of the head.

I know on the RB26 there is a "Cooling System Air Drain Plug". It is just a screw fitting. This is normally used to help air escape when you are performing a full coolant flush/refill. I think it is part of a vacuum chamber which feeds to the fuel pressure regulator.

So my question is where do I connect the "hot" water feed required from the head?

Has anybody on SAU have a Breather tank installed in their RB26? Pictures of your setup would be nice. 

Any help is appreciated (saves me $$$ getting a mechanic to do it)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267079-greddy-breather-tank/
Share on other sites
Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted
Lot of expense for nothing

380rwkw circuit/targa cars car run a stock setup... if its good enough for them.. well...

Have you ever seen one of these in action? Great for bleeding the coolant system the rest of it's functionality does not bother me either way.

Im thinking people are over the "My way or the highway attitude", there is more than one way to skin a cat, no pun intended Trent :/

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

i'm installing one of these now on my 25. I'm sorta with nismoid when it comes to standard engines. (not standard power wise, as in stock plenum, T/B, radiator etc.

I have altered my coolant system by fitting a forward facing plenum, and not running coolant thru the T/B. the highest point has changed and i no longer have the factory coolant bleeder. so i'm running a line from the old bleeder point nibble on the plunum (factory runners and flange) and one from the bottom radiator hose and I have a swirl pot here I may put in the top radiator hose and might run a line from that also.

as for expense, you can pick up D1 or M spec breather tanks for a around 100 bux. a coolant line fitting a nipple go for round 30 bux and then its some silicone line. not too much expense really.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Have you ever seen one of these in action? Great for bleeding the coolant system the rest of it's functionality does not bother me either way.

Im thinking people are over the "My way or the highway attitude", there is more than one way to skin a cat, no pun intended Trent :)

You already get one from the factory...

Yes i've seen them in action, a much better setup than the greddy as well, still doesn't mean you need one :)

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
You already get one from the factory...

Yes i've seen them in action, a much better setup than the greddy as well, still doesn't mean you need one :)

yes the greddy and D1 systems are extremeley simple but they are effective and like you i dont think modifying the coolant/vacuum rail on the manifold is warranted. What most people need is a simple fix i think the whole setup owes us $100 :)

i can tell you that if you fit a forward facing plenum it is a must. It was also mandatory on our car as we run only two coolant hoses on the whole engine upper and lower rad hoses and bleeding the system was nearly impossible (rad is quite low too).

(Fit a clear hose to your engine and watch it on the dyno) you will be suprised after some heavy work the shortcommings of the std setup.

Edited by URAS
r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted
yes the greddy and D1 systems are extremeley simple but they are effective and like you i dont think modifying the coolant/vacuum rail on the manifold is warranted. What most people need is a simple fix i think the whole setup owes us $100 :P

i can tell you that if you fit a forward facing plenum it is a must. It was also mandatory on our car as we run only two coolant hoses on the whole engine upper and lower rad hoses and bleeding the system was nearly impossible (rad is quite low too).

(Fit a clear hose to your engine and watch it on the dyno) you will be suprised after some heavy work the shortcommings of the std setup.

um wut? :w00t:

i was strongly advised against using one from my mechanic and tuner. if u have a radiator in the stock position why use one. its aimed at v mount setups that dont use header tanks...or so i was told.

ps i run a forward facing plenum, dont use one and im fine :P

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
um wut? :thumbsup:

i was strongly advised against using one from my mechanic and tuner. if u have a radiator in the stock position why use one. its aimed at v mount setups that dont use header tanks...or so i was told.

ps i run a forward facing plenum, dont use one and im fine :laugh:

probably as your tuner does not know what it does....... if you read the second part of my post and carry out the simple test you will soon see why rb25's with forward facing plenums benefit from a swirlpot.

nIsMo86 Experienced

nIsMo86

Posted
Posted

I completely agree with URAS...its not necessary but it is beneficial as it is easier to bleed and will stop you having unwanted air in system.

It works like a header tank does on alot of cars these days...eg mazdas, most saabs, etc. These cars do not have bleed screws to get rid of the air. I personally think it is a good design and am keen to set one up on my RB20.

Has anyone done a breather tank on an RB20 and have pics of their setup? Sorry for hijacking the thread a bit. Just keen to see how people have done it.

I was thinking to run mine off the coolant lines that go to the throttle body or tap a nipple into the bleed screw hole on plenum.

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted
Installed this Afternoon (car wasn't started yet when photo was taken so thats why there is not much coolant in the lines).

IMG_0031.jpg

From the picture, the bleeder tank is too low.

Your bleeder tank coolant level needs to be higher and above the head bleeding point for it to be effective.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...