Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bumpity x2

Hey mate same problem in my car... take the 4 screws off the air flow meter plug connection, then get a stanley knife or equivalent to open up the square that covers the AFM mainboard, once in there you'll notice 4 pins each should be soldered to 4 fork like connectors, my guess is they aren't just like mine wasn't, all you need is a soldering iron and pretty basic skills at best, push the 4 pins back against the forks and solder... TRUST me this fixes it, i had the exact same problem and i tried everything, then decided to take the AFM apart before i put a match to the whole F*%KING car.... lol.... give us a yell if you need more help or anything

Hey mate same problem in my car... take the 4 screws off the air flow meter plug connection, then get a stanley knife or equivalent to open up the square that covers the AFM mainboard, once in there you'll notice 4 pins each should be soldered to 4 fork like connectors, my guess is they aren't just like mine wasn't, all you need is a soldering iron and pretty basic skills at best, push the 4 pins back against the forks and solder... TRUST me this fixes it, i had the exact same problem and i tried everything, then decided to take the AFM apart before i put a match to the whole F*%KING car.... lol.... give us a yell if you need more help or anything

Good fella, I'll try this tonight.

Cheers.

how'd ya go mate, any luck?

Good fella, you were right, I took of the top square off the AFM, and one of the pins was just touching the fork connector. I got out the solder and melted it back together.

ALl sweet now for 2 weeks.

You've been alot of help mate, I was prepared to roll my car down a cliff

CHeers

And yes I do have an atmospheric blow-off valve. If I took it off would that solve the problem ?

Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling.

If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it.

Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling.

If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it.

Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

+1

Or when you change gears, make sure you shift to the next gear before revs reach 1,000 rpm.

Basically, the atmospheric BOV vents the air that should have originally recirculated back into the intake via the stock plumb back BOV.

So, you have air thats already been measured by the AFM escaping into the atmosphere, therefore, you AFR (air fuel ratio) will be distorted for a slight second because there will be an excess of fuel, hence, the stall of the engine.

Just change gears soon after you after you hear you BOV go off and youll be fine.

Cheers

Good fella, you were right, I took of the top square off the AFM, and one of the pins was just touching the fork connector. I got out the solder and melted it back together.

ALl sweet now for 2 weeks.

You've been alot of help mate, I was prepared to roll my car down a cliff

CHeers

Too easy mate glad i could help

  • 3 years later...

Its bit old thread but i need help..

I got 33 s2 and since i upgraded to 33 highflow turbo,car started droping rpm to 0 when i accellerate hard and back off to shift gear and it doesnt do that when im standing and reving.. Btw i dont have BOV,just blocked the hole..

google "fixing rb26 afm's"

same thing applies to rb25 and its super easy to do if you have a soldering iron

if you don't have a soldering iron order a gas powered one from somewhere like deal extreme or ebay for like $20

its becoming a really common problem now but its such an easy fix

Sounds like Reversion.

Put standard bov back on an plumb it into the intake pipe between the afm and turbo. Make sure the entry into the intake pipe is pointing at the turbo though

Edited by Mitcho_7

Well i jus checked AFM and its not faulty,cleaned AAC, but still does same thing :/ just the weird thing is this wasnt happening 3-4 days ago,it just started when i upgraded on r33 high flow turbo..

this sounds like the same problem i have on my daily (peugeot 306) it's gets worse the warmer they day (in winter it's almost nothing to worry about) summer every drive you go on it's cutting out and being a bitch, car even spent 2 weeks with a mechanic cpl years back and he couldn't fix it so i just gave up and put up with it.

might see if i can open up afm and see if anything is loose, would be sweet to sort it out before summer rolls around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...