Jump to content
SAU Community

Hhigh Oil Pressure With Jun Pump Then Drops At High Revs?

wsln33

By wsln33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wsln33 Collaborator

wsln33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I just got my car back from a 3 year build. Its a 26/30. It has a jun pump.

All is going well with it but the tuner says the oil pressure is high at around 130-140 psi but then drops to 120ish over 6500rpm. He was concerned about this? Do jun pumps usually run this high? and is the dropping oil pressure a concern or is it still plenty of oil pressure to keep everything happy?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

You'll have problems with that much oil pressure.

110 is probably the maximum you would want to see. 90-100 is more normal.

What bearing clearances were used and was the pressure relief valve checked before the pump went on?

wsln33 Collaborator

wsln33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You'll have problems with that much oil pressure.

110 is probably the maximum you would want to see. 90-100 is more normal.

What bearing clearances were used and was the pressure relief valve checked before the pump went on?

Dont know the bearing clearances right now. I wouldnt think the pressure relief valve was checked. The pump was just put on. How should the relief valve be checked?

What sort of problems will I have with that much oil pressure? Im running the engine in at the moment and have to put 1000km on it so will it be ok before I have to take it back?

Thanks mate

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
dont the 30 pumps run the small oil pump drive though? im talking on the oil pump not the crank.

thats correct...the pump is a different gear design and is not prone to the Jap pump problems. Pull one apart and you will see what i mean.

crack off pressure is the point at which the relief valve opens.

Edited by DiRTgarage
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
thats correct...the pump is a different gear design and is not prone to the Jap pump problems. Pull one apart and you will see what i mean.

crack off pressure is the point at which the relief valve opens.

thats right they are like the tomei pumps, they run a 'spline' drive gear setup

i wouldnt trust one on a big dollar motor though

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
thats right they are like the tomei pumps, they run a 'spline' drive gear setup

i wouldnt trust one on a big dollar motor though

But your not Maatouk's, Birrong Automotive, JW Auto etc running 8's with them

Dan what problems will around 135psi at low RPM produce?

Edited by DiRTgarage
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
Thats probably why you only run 9's. If you ran the 30 pump like all those other fancy stables you might crack 8's. :cool:

lol...im struggling to even run a 9 now, we will see what happens when the car arrives up here to race. A few little tricks we have planned for it.

Also you can add JPC and most of the Melbourne VL boys to that list.

Im currently running a JUN pump now but will go to a Peterson external pump when it breaks.

My forklift bottom end will run a VL series II or VL turbo pump (they are the same) reco'd and modified by JW Auto.

Edited by DiRTgarage
FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
lol...im struggling to even run a 9 now, we will see what happens when the car arrives up here to race. A few little tricks we have planned for it.

Also you can add JPC and most of the Melbourne VL boys to that list.

Im currently running a JUN pump now but will go to a Peterson external pump when it breaks.

My forklift bottom end will run a VL series II or VL turbo pump (they are the same) reco'd and modified by JW Auto.

A little birdie told me the car is only 2 minutes from my pad as I type.

Might go round and key it tomorrow. :blink::cool:

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
A little birdie told me the car is only 2 minutes from my pad as I type.

Might go round and key it tomorrow. :blink::cool:

your 'little birdy' has been snorting too much powdered cuttlefish.

i know where the car is and its no-where near you Fox.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • Kapr
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By Kapr · Posted

      @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...