Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all u can do to reduce it is get a resonator, unfortunately it reduces the loudness factor in of ur exaust in general it does get rid of the aweful resonance, i have a resonator off a V8 commodore, it has 0 restriction and has almost totally eliminated the noise, it pretty much only does it when the car is cold now. On the plus side it gave the care really really deep note.

  • 2 weeks later...

This noise got me defected yesterday, i knew it would happen, i was surprised i lasted this long with the noise. I might investigate into a full catback system now.

A v8 resonator hey??, might request for that aswell, i am over huge noise, im all for performance now.....as much as my na will provide anyway. Start with cat back, move onto cat, then incomes the extractors.

yep, they reckon they use it on the newer v8 commies and fords, he gave it too me for free cause he felt sorry for charging me for a new cat and it didnt even fix tghe problem, or if they know about it, ask for the resonator they use on twin cam corollas apparently these work even better.

  • 2 years later...

My car does this as well, did it with stock exhaust and still does it with 2.5" cat back exhaust with TRUST stainless steel muffler (no resonators or additional mufflers).

As others have said seems to be worse when the car is cold, pisses me off cause I rev real slow leaving my street and it makes the noise around 2500rpm, sometimes I shift as soon as I hear the noise start cause I think it sounds sh*t.

Only ever does it around 2500rpm-3000rpm never high in the rev range.

Took it to exhaust shop the other day who installed my cat-back but he had NFI what it would be. He got under the car while I revved it but it didnt make the noise (I think it only does it when the car is under load).

It's embarressing when it makes that horrible noise!

Do you think it's worth getting a resonator put in?

I have no idea what this "noise" is, I'm going to try upload a sound file of my gts, tell me if this "noise" is there...

hmmm the file is 40mb lol... How can I make it smaller.. it's a video and soun file.. you don't really need to see the video part tho...

Putting a decent resonator on your system eliminates it completely and as NA_33 said, although it becomes a bit quieter it sounds much deeper. I can relate to what all of you guys are saying, it kicks in around 2500/3000 rpm and makes an awful crackling/vibrating noise. I to was embaressed changing gears b/c the sound was that awful! Trust me, all you need is to put a good resonator in the piping, you'll be thankful.

  • 3 weeks later...

I know its an old thread but if anyone is reading Id highly suggest a resonator. A single muffer and cat will always sound awful on an NA car, a good muffler with a good quality resonator will really bring out the awesome note with out the horrible raspy/cackly noise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...