Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, just put some mods on my 1990 32GTR recently with 123ks. So far, I have installed:

  • Vipec ecu running 13psi
  • Blitz pod air filters
  • 3 inch catback exhaust
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • sard 700cc injectors
  • bosh 044 fuel pump
  • turbosmart fuel reg
  • nismo fmic
  • vipec boost controller

Everything else stock.

had the car dynoed on shell optimax and it only managed to get 192 awkw. This seems prety low to me with the level of mods i have compared to other owners of GTR's with less mods. Is there something wrong with my motor or is this figure about right? Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267688-gtr32-power-level/
Share on other sites

There is a whole thread dedicated to RB26 dyno results - a LOT with stock turbos.

Have a look through, you'll soon see what you should be getting with 2-3 pages.

thanks, I looked on the forums, and people are running more power than me with less mods. Maybe the engine is just tired and need a freshen up.

Yeh, my car got 50kw's more in rw mode than in aw mode on the same dyno lol, some dyno's allow for the awkw mode and will read like rw dyno's and some have no correction and will just read the power output at all fours.. Also some will read higher than others because the tuners like them reading that way

That's the shiet thing, some peoples stated awd are actually just adjusted to read like rwd figures, at autosalon for example

I've always wondered about the power loss.. 50kw's seems alot to lose just to the front wheels being on? How can some legitimate tuners get readings on awd dyno's that are only a few kw's different from the same car in rwd on the same dyno

Edited by GTAAAH

I dont understand why you have done what youve done to the fuel system! For standard turbos! You dont need it. Plain and simple.

For the money youve spent on the fuel system you could have bought a second hand set of hi-flows and made ~270kw.

Forget about changing the dumps, thats stupid, might as well change turbos at the same time if youre going to do that.

Yes do a front pipe and check the cat. Or go de-cat. (Best)

P.S 13psi is scary for 19 year old turbos.

I dont understand why you have done what youve done to the fuel system! For standard turbos! You dont need it. Plain and simple.

P.S 13psi is scary for 19 year old turbos.

+1 and +1.

Standard fuel system is ok for up to ~280kw (tho fuel pumps get tired so it is probably worth replacing that)

I just blow one of my turbos at 13psi. Conservative tune, 120,000kms. (FWIW they're supposed to be replaced every 100,000kms).

ask your tuner about it. what did he say? do a power run in RWD and see if it makes you feel better. and as above, for up to 280rwkw you can use standard injectors, standard reg and standard pump (providing it's healthy).

I dont understand why you have done what youve done to the fuel system! For standard turbos! You dont need it. Plain and simple.

For the money youve spent on the fuel system you could have bought a second hand set of hi-flows and made ~270kw.

Forget about changing the dumps, thats stupid, might as well change turbos at the same time if youre going to do that.

Yes do a front pipe and check the cat. Or go de-cat. (Best)

P.S 13psi is scary for 19 year old turbos.

Yeah thanks for the advice, I'll get the front pipe and cat checked. I guess I should have asked for advice before I started tuning my car. Learning the hard way :P . I bought the GTR off one of my workmates to resell but decided to keep it instead. When he had the car, he upgraded to 3" catback exhaust. was going to change the front pipe and cat, but my mechanic said that they will be fine cause they are aftermarket. He also did Pod filters, VIPEC ECU tuned running 12psi. The car had a power output of 189awkw. So basically I made 3awkw with the added mods :cool: . Better than nothing I guess

ask your tuner about it. what did he say? do a power run in RWD and see if it makes you feel better. and as above, for up to 280rwkw you can use standard injectors, standard reg and standard pump (providing it's healthy).

I asked my mechanic about the power output, he said that 258awhp aka 192awkws is quite normal for a car running standard turbos. Well thats a bit of the reason why I changed them as well just to be on the safe side cause the system is getting quite old now. nearly 19 years old. But Im not too sure if they have been changed in the past.

+1 and +1.

Standard fuel system is ok for up to ~280kw (tho fuel pumps get tired so it is probably worth replacing that)

I just blow one of my turbos at 13psi. Conservative tune, 120,000kms. (FWIW they're supposed to be replaced every 100,000kms).

sorry to hear that your turbo blew. what a bummer. I just hope that my turbos hold up for a little while longer

Im just running the stock turbos. I think Mark was going to run them at 14psi, but decided to run them at 13psi instead

Agreed with Femno's comments, spend money on turbo's and dumps next.

FYI i had 15psi, 262rwkw/236awkw

Yeah thanks for the advice, I'll get the front pipe and cat checked. I guess I should have asked for advice before I started tuning my car. Learning the hard way :P . I bought the GTR off one of my workmates to resell but decided to keep it instead. When he had the car, he upgraded to 3" catback exhaust. was going to change the front pipe and cat, but my mechanic said that they will be fine cause they are aftermarket. He also did Pod filters, VIPEC ECU tuned running 12psi. The car had a power output of 189awkw. So basically I made 3awkw with the added mods :cool: . Better than nothing I guess

Car was tuned on same dyno by the way.

Agreed with Femno's comments, spend money on turbo's and dumps next.

FYI i had 15psi, 262rwkw/236awkw

Was that on aftermarket turbos?? I have purchased some second hand rebuilt GTR33 steel wheeled ballbearing turbos. Just waiting on them to arrive, Its been 5 weeks and still waiting.

Was that on aftermarket turbos?? I have purchased some second hand rebuilt GTR33 steel wheeled ballbearing turbos. Just waiting on them to arrive, Its been 5 weeks and still waiting.

Stockers. Other mods (minimal) are in the thread R31Nismoid linked you to.

Turbos's dont take 5 weeks for delivery from within Australia. Contact the seller, get a tracking number

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...