Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to change my gearbox oil and diff oil. I know that Redline is one of the best oils for a car's gearbox. Helps synchro's work better.

BUT. I remember hearing/reading that the lightwieght shockproof gear oil is corrosive for the gearbox.

On the website it says:

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions).
.

Does that mean it will corrode your gearbox. I also hear it only lasts for 10,000kms. Not 80,000 like normal gear oils.

And will that corrode the LSD of my R32, with a RB25DET engine and box.

So I was wondering if I shoudl just get Redline superlight shock proof oil. Or Royal purple maxgear.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267969-gearbox-redline-oil-vs-royal-purple/
Share on other sites

I have only had good experiences with Redline Shockproof oils in my R33 GTS-T.

I run Shockproof Heavy in the diff and it has tightened up the diff quite nicely. I also tried it in the diff of my R33 GTR but it tightened the diff up too much to the point where it was becoming more of a locker so I swapped it over the Motul instead.

I have used Shockpreef light in my GTS-T gearbox with no problems. It seemed to smooth out the synchros and improves gear changes. I change my drive train lubricants every 20k and they come out nice and clean. My son then reuses the shockproof light in the gesrbox of his Mazda 626 with no problems.

Redline oils are expensive and these are my experiences.

shock proof is recommended for gearboxes that are in good condition it is able to be used in syncro gearboxes but only if they are in good nick no syncs crunching and all that otherwise your box will have a much shorter life i run heavey weight shock in my rb25 box and its great smooth shifts and engages great recommended it but be prepared to choke at the price

My memory is opposite: MT90 for good condition transmissions, light shockproof to help worn synchros work better (so postpones the inevitable gearbox rebuild). Ring Redline for confirmation.

I emailed them. I hear the distributor is in Ozy Park, So I will call them.

Yeh, pretty sure shockproof is only for race use and worn box's. Not good condition ones. Its either too slippery or just corrosive

^^^i was also under the impression to use it on race cars or worn boxes.

was thinking about putting it into my rb25 box but am a bit undecided if i should use this or use castrol vmx80 with nulon additive.

my gearbox crunches 2nd unless i shift at quite low revs :)

^^^i was also under the impression to use it on race cars or worn boxes.

was thinking about putting it into my rb25 box but am a bit undecided if i should use this or use castrol vmx80 with nulon additive.

my gearbox crunches 2nd unless i shift at quite low revs :)

Redline is a real good brand. The normal MT-90 oil they do for good condition gearbox'. Thats what I recomend

MT-90

Popular in Nissan, Toyota and Mazda manual transmissions and transaxles as well as other selected applications, this is a 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil that’s slightly heavier than MTL. Provides excellent protection of gears and synchronizers and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coefficient of friction, allowing easier shifting.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Car - Nissan - Skyline

All-2001 GTS & GTS-T (single turbo) (R32,R33,R34) RB25 & RB25T Eng, 2500cc, 2WD

Component Recommended Oil / Fluid

Motor:

Select your closest climate range. For -10°to25°C use '5W40' or 5°to35°C use '10W40' or 15°to50°C use '15W50'. (* Racing Only - use Race Oils) @ see handbook for Litres

Manual Gearbox:

Select your closest climate range. For -10°to25°C use 'MTL' or 5°to35°C use 'MTL' or 15°to50°C use 'Superlight Shock'. (* Advantage option for Performance / Racing use 'Lightweight Shockproof'.) @ see handbook for Litres

Rear Diff:

Red Line '75W90' Gear Oil (* Advantage Option for Racing use Red Line 75W90) @ see handbook for Litres

Power Steering:

Red Line Synthetic Power Steering Fluid (Bar Code Nos 30404 or RL182-1) @ 0.9 Litres = 1 US Quarts

Cooling System:

Use WaterWetter (Pink) to improve temperature control and reduce corrosion. 1x355ml bottle with distilled water. @ 1 Bottles

Fuel System:

Red Line 'SI-1' Fuel System Cleaner. 1 bottle in petrol tank every 10,000 kms. @ 1 Bottles

Edited by reNEGaDe88

what i have been told is that although the shockproof oil makes your old gearbox good again it is not designed to make it last in other words it will fix all that crappy things happening but it WILL wear quicker and give up quicker than if you were not running it . so if efficiency is your aim then yes use it if durability is your aim then it is not recommended take notice or not i dont care i run heavy weight in my box i would not run light or super light personally and i dont care how long my box lasts as long as it is working at 110 %

Yeh, I want new oil for my gearbox to feel a lil bit better and last long. So I would need something like Redline MT-90 which lasts for 80,000km, unlike lightweightshock proof which lasts 10,000km, and box wears faster.

Cheers

unlike lightweightshock proof which lasts 10,000km

Where did you get that info?

FWIW the standard interval is 100,000 and that's for mineral oil. Synthetics should be more like 300,000.

What a load of crap. I put redline shockproof in about 3 years ago. About 1.5 years ago we changed my clutch and took the fluid out, it looked brand new so we decided to reuse it. I've had the same lightweight shockproof in there for about 30,000km and it still feals like a new tight box.

Nissan recomend you change your gearbox oil every 80,000km. I read that the Redline Lightweight shockproof oil is for race cars with dog box's etc. So it made to give max performance not necessarily max duration. So it only last 20,000km before the compounds of oil break down...

Nissan recomend you change your gearbox oil every 80,000km. I read that the Redline Lightweight shockproof oil is for race cars with dog box's etc. So it made to give max performance not necessarily max duration. So it only last 20,000km before the compounds of oil break down...

Hate to disagree with again on a different thread but thats incorrect

I have a bottle of redline oil (light shockproof) which i used on my gear box. It says on the bottle that the oil is good for up to 400 000kms.

Ill upload a pic when i find one on my pc.

EDIT:

Found the pic... You will probably need to zoom in on the sticker that has been circled in blue (Save picture as then use windows picture view to zoom in). The bottle is at my workshop. Next time im there ill snap a better pic. But this will have to do for now.

Or alternatively, go to this link.. is a bit easier to see

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm33/br...n79/redline.jpg

redline.jpg

Edited by br3ndan

I used redline lightweight in an RB20 box that ran no oil in it for a month.. i bought the car, it whined like a bitch, thought it was almost dead, thought id have a look in their and not a drop of oil came out. so i filled it up with the lightweight and it's good as, been good for 6months now and i thrash it hard.

Yeh, I want new oil for my gearbox to feel a lil bit better and last long. So I would need something like Redline MT-90 which lasts for 80,000km, unlike lightweightshock proof which lasts 10,000km, and box wears faster.

Cheers

I'd recommend something other than Redline MT-90, when discussing with someone else who regularly uses Redline he recommended Redline MTL, MT-90 is quite thin.

Note: I'm talking about R32/R33 boxes, not R34....

It doesn't work well for my series 3 R33 GTR box (its 10 years old so maybe its worn synchros), so I'm trying Castrol Syntrans 75w85 next

sorry for double post. But I found this on redline tech sheet

CORROSION PROTECTION

The extreme pressure chemistry used in many gear oils

can be corrosive to brass and bronze used in synchronizers

and bushings. Most gear oils are corrosive at

temperatures of 200°F. Red Line Gear Oils are non-corrosive

up to 300°F and the MTL® in excess of 375°F. A

corrosive gear oil can shorten synchronizer life by half

and can also contribute to rust problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...