Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My inlet manifold gasket is blown (can clearly hear the engine react when brake cleaner is sprayed around the gasket) and my R32 GTR only putting out 199kw as a result, I've brought replacement metal gaskets (inlet manifold and set of throttle body) but I'm not confident about taking the inlet manifold off, doing the change correctly (throttle body gaskets are fine I think, but I want to change them anyway) and putting it back on.

you would be better off getting that done by a garage mate....sounds like a bit of work is involved in that....but then again RyanRB25 might be able to help you out there as he is very knowledgeable in regards jap cars etc

Boost Worx, 8299-0621

Unit 1, 58 Boothby Street, Panorama

http://www.boostworx.com.au

[email protected]

Dyno Tuning Available

Aussie Dyno Mufflers & Brakes Pty Ltd

373 Port Rd, Hindmarsh SA 5007

(08) 8340 0584

(08) 8340 3555

Willall Industries Pty Ltd

Wilkins Rd (cnrBrowningSt)

Gillman SA 5013

(08) 8341 1707

Southern HiTech Dyno Tune

8 Emanuel Crt, Melrose Park SA 5039

(08) 8277 4400

Fax (08) 8277 4422

[email protected]

BDT Performance, 8370-3450

2 Stirling Road, Blackwood

http://www.bdtperformance.com.au

Dyno Tuning Available

Graham West Workshop, 8277-5688

668 Marion Road, Park Holme

Dyno Tuning Available

HiTech Dyno, 8277-4400

1111 Main South Road, Melrose Park

Dyno Tuning Available

Mildren Race Engineering, 8443-8299

19 Phillips Street, Thebarton

http://www.mildrens.com.au

Dyno Tuning Available

Morpowa Performance Specialists, 8264-2077

14 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North

http://www.morpowa.com.au

Dyno Tuning Available

Road & Track Services - Gil Cameron

3 Collins St, Enfield SA 5085

PH: 8344 8930

yeah it's at least a 4-5hr job for someone whose done it before, Boostworx quoted $400 only prob is their waiting list

Thats interesting..... Your qoute is a solid 400+ dollars cheaper than a mate of mine who got a qoute on the same work a month or so ago......

awesome.... :S

hahahah prolly return customer :D

:P they actualy called me while they were doing my 100k service n told me the quote :S just goes to show its good to know ppl!

maybe you could stop being such a tool n help a brother out, i no ur cars been there a bit.

yeah likely with speaking to me like that

i wasnt the one dropping stupid commetns to start lol... maybe we could so it togeather and ill teach u how to clean that pod i sold ya?

n we'll leave it at that... ill be doing mine soon so once ive dont it ill let u no my hints, do's donts etc. :P

Edited by chef_stagea
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...