Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to remove the wiper soon. It's not JDM, its just crap. (Useful tho - does look homo but).

I was gonna just go to clark rubber and see if I can find something to suit. Anyone on here still selling the plug to fit?

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can buy a gromet like that from most auto stores (I bought mine at Autobarn) that fits it perfectly.

Never leaked water once and no one ever noticed it unless I pointed it out. I like the cleaner look without the wiper. Each to their own.

You're embarrassing.....and gay like a rear wiper on a R33

2021355_o.gif

And you got 2 gay wrestlers on your screen. Whos more gay. YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU, And if you own a toyota, please f off as this is Skylines Australia. LOL 1000000 times in your face.:whistling::domokun::nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa: :nyaanyaa:

I'll have a look this weekend as to how to remove the bloody thing. I've always looked at it and thought "nah looks difficult".

Flip up the cap on the wiper arm, there's a bolt under there for the arm. The motor is just in under the pacel shelf in the boot, think it's a couple of bolts. Haven't removed mine but that's what I remember from looking at it.

Just reading over this thread, I was always under the impression rear wipers were standard on the series 1 33's? But I don't think I've ever seen a series II with one? Seems like I'm in the minority with a series II without one?

They came with a wiper standard but it was an option to have one w/out.

Very easy to get rid of using a grommet to fill the two holes.

I use rain x on my rear window to help stop water beading. 99% of the time there is NO need for a wiper.

If the water continues to bead then drive faster.:thumbsup:

Use the heater to de-mist it.

Flip up the cap on the wiper arm, there's a bolt under there for the arm. The motor is just in under the pacel shelf in the boot, think it's a couple of bolts. Haven't removed mine but that's what I remember from looking at it.

P306152220110306_0005.jpg

P306152320110306_0006.jpg

P306152920110306_0012.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...