Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've done a search, and read several threads, but unfortunately they all turn into a single vs twins debate.

Luckily, I dislike twins, so there is no need for a debate, I wont be using them :P

Can anyone tell me which water line to use for the single conversion on a 26? The front or the rear?

And I'm using a Garrett GT3582, and I have a JUN oil pump, will I need a restrictor of some sort to stop the oil blowing past the seals??

Cheers :D

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268812-rb26-single-conversion/
Share on other sites

Hey Paul,

Unrelated answer, but i am interested to see how you go with this turbo, and why you didnt go to the 4088r or the newer 3788r??

My engine spec is rather similar and i am too considering making the switch to a single. when i get it all back together..

Hey Andrew,

The car is a circuit car, and as such I'm aiming for the most response possible while maintaining roughly 400wkw.

The 4088r appears too lazy, and I am yet to see a graph of the 3788r.

Instead, I've customised a 3582r with a T04 0.82 rear housing (V-band + T4 flange).

We will see how it progresses, it is booked in for a tune on the 14th.

where are you gettting it tuned cockspank?!?

if its at xspeed get ant to overlay my graph on yours... then we can finally compare very similar gt35r vs t04z

also in regards to the water line, we blocked off the front one and ran feed from the rear (it was a bit of a cvnt) but that is how all single turbo rb's are run so we figured it to be the best way to go

I've run feed from the block and returned to the front.

Makes the most sense to me as the hot water then goes straight into the radiator not back around the engine.

Also one less water line to worry about breaking and having to replace at the back of the engine. Doing that in the car ... what a F*kin nightmare.

Oh and unlike CERB's ... My 26 has run a time :starwars:

Edited by Butters
I've run feed from the block and returned to the front.

Makes the most sense to me as the hot water then goes straight into the radiator not back around the engine.

Also one less water line to worry about breaking and having to replace at the back of the engine. Doing that in the car ... what a F*kin nightmare.

Oh and unlike CERB's ... My 26 has run a time :verymad:

Cheers Simmo.

Marbles, Sean's tuning it as it's heading to All-Star from Volatile (it's not far away) to finish off the conversion. Will get it run up on X-Speed dyno tho to see the difference between yours and mine.

Paul you can use either front or rear, the rear looks neater imo but as Butters said one less line to worry about not being able to get to if its on the front of the motor. I dont know about garret turbos and restrictor i have a 3076 on my other motor and its been getting abit of blowby past the front seal and its brand new so maybe its worth a look into.

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...