Jump to content
SAU Community

clutch

john

By john,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

john Enthusiast

john

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by rob77

It helps to do a search before asking. Try ross @ perth autoclutch in osborne park. About $830 drive in and out for a 2500pound pressure plate 9 puck clutch doing me well and I have a touch under 350hp @ wheels.

thanks for the replies guys

i did a search under 'clutch' but go fed up after the first 6 pages and though starting a post would be easier.

whats drivability like with a clutch like that rob77.

anyone get one that was a little cheaper than $830??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26907-clutch/#findComment-568659
Share on other sites
Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Got one of Ross's clutches in the R.

So far survived 2 sessions at the Plex with 7k launches!

Feels like an OEM clutch is installed, however.

I'm not kidding myself that it will last forever, however if it lasts me a year, I'm still ahead of buying a $3k twin plate (that I doubt will last 3 years!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26907-clutch/#findComment-568707
Share on other sites
caminperth Grand Master

caminperth

Posted
Posted

Add me to the list of happy ross @ autoclutch customers. I went the 9 puck ceramic plate with 2500lb pressure plate. A little harder to push down and a bit different to get used to but once you do you'll love it.

I've got approx 260rwhp and it copes with it fine. It's lasted 2 drift days - kicking the clutch in second at 5000rpm, shown in avitar :P - and didn't miss a beat. No shudder or light pedal feel afterwards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26907-clutch/#findComment-568751
Share on other sites
streamer Rising Star

streamer

Posted
Posted

mine is an Exedy brass button...cost me 800 to put in..

good for arnd 450hp according to Evo R which is where i did it

drives well...after u get used to it...a tad bit heavier than the stocko but like i said, works well after u get used to it...and bites like a fkin piranha too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26907-clutch/#findComment-568914
Share on other sites
ARGH34 Contributor

ARGH34

Posted
Posted

I got a brass button clutch in my car (from the previous owner) installed by XSpeed and I was told it cost about $900. Not sure what brand it is, but I don't really think its the best clutch out there.

My brass button (like all other brass buttons I think?) has no 'ride' whatsoever i.e. you can't ride the clutch, say, if you want to balance the car on an upward sloping hill. You can do it for about 2 seconds before you hear this shrill grating metal-on-metal screech (that sounds like running your nails down a chalkboard). I guess thats the 'brass' in my clutch.

The clutch is either on or off, so it sucks when you're in traffic, especially if the road is going uphill. Plus riding the clutch gently when in reverse is not possible without the screech. But if I release my clutch fully in reverse the car hoons along backwards - not the best thing in carparks :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26907-clutch/#findComment-568969
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...