Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking around at the moment, trying to figure out the best way to do the conversion.

So far looking at the Top Secret, Cross Factory, Nismo, and East Bear gt-r kits mainly, Have had a look at most of the brands by now, and I don't mind the Crux or the Impul kit too.

Buying my parts locally are quite expensive, does anybody know anything about important parts from japan? any good sites to use or somebody in aus who knows how to bring kits in?

im also considering bringing a half cut in

not really too sure which will work out cheaper, just trying to bring down the cost as much as possible, time is not really an issue, I'd rather take it slowly and choose the best option since i'm still new to the modifying scene and i'm quite lost at the moment ..

1. Buying parts locally

2. Importing parts from Japan

3. Bringing a half cut of a gt-r in

if anybody has any experience in this could you lend us a hand?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269244-r34-gt-to-gt-r-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looking around at the moment, trying to figure out the best way to do the conversion.

So far looking at the Top Secret, Cross Factory, Nismo, and East Bear gt-r kits mainly, Have had a look at most of the brands by now, and I don't mind the Crux or the Impul kit too.

Buying my parts locally are quite expensive, does anybody know anything about important parts from japan? any good sites to use or somebody in aus who knows how to bring kits in?

im also considering bringing a half cut in

not really too sure which will work out cheaper, just trying to bring down the cost as much as possible, time is not really an issue, I'd rather take it slowly and choose the best option since i'm still new to the modifying scene and i'm quite lost at the moment ..

1. Buying parts locally

2. Importing parts from Japan

3. Bringing a half cut of a gt-r in

if anybody has any experience in this could you lend us a hand?

cheers

Hi again, i just wanted to ask you how far you going with the conversion again? just the front or all over?

i think we discussed just the front however if you are going all over keep in mind you will have to change the side skirts if you go the GTR Rear quarters and also if you go the rear quarters you will need to change the rear bar as well to GTR as it flares outwards to line up with the rear quarters and also you will need to change the petrol lid as well.You may get away with the existing tail light outside covers depending how particular you are being or else you will need to change those as well.and once you have completed all over conversion then you will need to consider new rims to fit into those GTR guards.After its complete then i guess its of to the engine swap........ $$$$$$$$ lol

As for purchasing places like Import Monster can bring parts in for you as well, they have informed me this before ,so long as i know what im seeking etc and all details they maybe able to get it in for me shipped through them.

I use their service for all my yahoo japan auctions i have won etc. Never had a problem.Some paarts on yahoo japan are cheap and some may work out more expensive once you add shipping fees etc as compared to if you ordered direct from Nissan, example a petrol lid cover would have cost me just on $199 to get it in my hands via the auctions and this was a 2nd hand item too, so i decided to call up local nissan dealer to get a cost how much to order in from them brand new and it was only $119 so keep an eye on things like that too.

anyway all the best on this

cheers,

David.

Damn, yeah maybe i'll just stick to the front for now, was thinking of doing the whole kit since i thought the fitting + spraying would work out cheaper if i did it all in one go.

Sounds a bit expensive though, cant really afford to do it all just yet.

So generally importing parts is cheaper than buying it off places like vivagarage and powerplaceimports on the net?

Thanks for recommending import monster, checking it out now looks pretty good

haha would love to change the engine one day :)

wow i was just on import monster and i found this gt-t converted into gt-r

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h....jpg&title=

LOVE the front fenders, side skirts and front bumper.

anybody got an idea what company makes these parts and how to get them? those are seriously the nicest fenders ive seen!

While im all up for modding cars to owners tastes, before you go down this path, you may want to consider the future.

Eg, you'll spend multiple $1000's on this before its done. In the end it will still not be a GTR. Then convert the motor to a 26, that doesnt make it a GTR either. Put a front diff in and AWD? Nope, still not a GTR.

What im getting at, is that if a buyer comes along and does a VIN check it will show as a GTT for ever. Also im sure if you add up every cost (i mean, every single cost/part) needed to do this, you couldve bought the real thing for similar money as the exchange rate vs cost of GTR's in Japan isnt all that bad right now.

Lets say you ignore me and go ahead with it, in 5 years time its still not a GTR, however you've spent so much money that you're too far in debt to the car to sell it and get the real thing as you'll NEVER get the money back you spend on it. Spending 20k for example on a GTT will increase its resale value by a bit, but spending 20k on a GTR will increase its resale value slightly more as they will always be the more desired versions or the R34. As an example, have a look at the R33 market currently. :P

Best of luck with it all :bunny:

yeah i've considered just selling my gt and getting a gt-r but the one off payment is huge .. ill have to add approximately 20-30k all in one big payment. also if i got a gt-r its already pretty much perfect, not much work left to do, and i love having something else i wanna do to the car. but yeah, ill lose alot of money if i do sell it off.

i also considered swapping my gt 34 for a gtr 33 too, they are very nice cars also, but im attached to 34s already :P

still alot of decision making to do before i spend any money on this car, but we'll see soon hopefully

wow, good deal, but not really, im pretty into the square/boxy looking kits similar to the stock gt-r.

top secret was a pretty good price, 350 for the front bumper.

the front half isnt really too expensive in aus

around 350-400 for a front bump,er

600 for the fenders

500 for the hood

1.5k is quite reasonable i guess, but im just trying to cut costs wherever possible since the fitting/painting will cost a bit.

just seeing which option will work out cheapest.

cheers for that but

the rear bar looks like OEM GTR as this GTT has Modified rear 1/4's, it doesnt look great though if you take a close look where the rear 1/4's meet up with the rear bar and the tail light line ,it looks odd and not a smooth transition like the normal rear to the 1/4's,the rear bar top needs to continue along the tail light along down to the rear tyre dwell. It has a East Bear GTS"R" badge on the front and back as well.The front fenders look similar to Do-Luck

hmm ive seen a few more brands fenders, could it be BN's? looks a bit like it

nismo parts generally cost a fair bit dont they..?

that is a nice car though, would love to get mine to somewhere similar to that one day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...