Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thread will contain all my adventures in the setting up of my on the move entertainment solution for my M35 Stagea.

The beginning.

I tooled around the forum for ages, looking at Stageas and V35's. I met with Andy (cheers again) and saw his setup. I swapped emails with Chris and Chook. Then developed a plan.

Bought the TV tuner form Chook, the lead/adapter from Chris, steering wheel controls from Chris and also got a recommendation for an awesome local installer. I'm reasonably handy when it comes to mucking about with basic ICE setups but I'll need an installer for this as I want some custom made bits.

I liked the ipod setups I'd seen but also fancied a carputer. The I decided I could have both and swapped the Nokia for an iPhone.

So the setup will go like this:

OEM stereo for CD's and radio - like the idea of OEM and steering wheel controls

Working TV tuner with AV inputs which will also feed the iphone and reversing camera to the OEM screen.

Iphone will provide phone, music, videos and GPS and also email and web on the move, all visible on the OEM screen.

I am having a custom dock solution made which will replace the ashtray and having the TV tuner remote integrated into the dash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269247-ice-audio-video-project-for-my-m35/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Pat has a car there at the moment that I sent him. should be good once its done. (Ausky this is yours.)

look up a thread I did on a M35 a while back. that may give you an idea or two as well.

Can't edit the post.

The custom mount for the iPhone is going to work well, it'll fit in the ashtray and so it gets the stealth factor. I pop open the ashtray and pop in the iPhone and get video and audio through the screen and stereo :)

I'm getting an RCA video out plug mounted in the rear of the centre console as well so I can hook up a secondary screen at my leisure.

ahh youre using the dock in similar fashion to that website that did it for the G35?

was a very nice install if you can replicate that!

Not difficult to do.

Once you are in behind the console, running a chord into the ashtray is quite straight forward.

Was thinking about doing an ashtray mount for my iPod classic, but with the roads I drive on (and the speed I take corners at times), it would put far too much stress through the connection (plus the iPod classic is pretty heavy).

iPhone is a bit lighter, so should work well.

+1 for pics please!

yeah but the iphone is much taller and IMO it doesnt sit in docks as well as the classic (yes i have both as well)

i just chuck my ipod and iphone in the drink holder and use the cable plugged into the headphone socket. actually i should get the aux input cable from chris!

+2 for pics :P

The project is finiched, well this part anyway. I have more plans but this will get me out of trouble.

Iphone has a custom connector/dock in the front ashtray, TV tuner fitted and working fine :blink:, extra Video out cable fitted to rear of centre console so I can plug in another screen for the back seats.

The Iphone sends video to the screen and audio through the stereo so I can listen to my MP3's or have a music video going, or put on Toy Story for the little fella.

I'll have to make some time later to take some decent pics, here's one for starters.

iphonedock1.jpg

Awesome set-up Houdini, you must be rapped!

I'll get around to getting the TV and Sat Nav fixed one of these days, for now I want to focus on the performance side of things and then worry about entertainment later :ninja:

I like the spot you the iphone docks, I've seen other setup's but they have used the drink holder which sucks if you want to keep it. But I don't smoke so the ashtray is ideal!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...