Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I normally recommend Spybot Search and Destroy, I used it for about 3 years.

But recenctly I haven't been able to run it because my computer is infected with spyware, the "firewall" keeps turning off and my virus scanner won't update automatically...

So, I bought a mac on the weekend.

EDIT: :);)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4588755
Share on other sites

I have found Super AntiSpyware and Malwarebytes' to be pretty good.

Also use Avast or AVG Antivirus

along with Spybot Search and Destroy

and Eusing Free Registry cleaner.

all free programs...

just don't go to dodgy porn sites and sign up your email to dodgy stuff!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4591090
Share on other sites

Spybot S&D and Adaware, use both.

If they can't fix it, then it's well beyond anything you can cope with and you need someone who knows what they're doing to remove the problem.

A bit of regular maintenance goes a long way too, clean out your cookies, cache, temp, history and prefetch folders.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4591736
Share on other sites

Malware bytes (free version, no need to upgrade to the paid one) and Spybot S & D

Both are quite good. I recently have found Malware Bytes to be better in picking up things that Spybot doesn't. Use a combination of both and between them they should pickup everything.

If these don't fix the problem, then you start to go into the territory on looking at the registry and using a program like hijack this to analyse what has been set to start from the registry. You need to be careful with this though as you can kill the computer if you don't know what you are looking for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4591753
Share on other sites

when a bought a new comp 3 years ago, my parents inheritted my old one, i wiped the hdd and completely reinstalled xp for them. within 2 weeks of them using it it was facked. even with norton 360 it got raped by malware, viruses, spammers, and blue screen of dooooom. i told mum, jokingly of course, that best way to get ridda the viruses n fix the comp was to zap the hdd in the microwave. she thought i was serious >.<* i bought them a new hdd and told them if they have any questions to call austin computers next time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4601319
Share on other sites

My old trade was I.T (I got bored siting in a shop all day) I used to tell my customers that I would fault find for 30mins, anything after that it was more economical to reinstall windows and burn their data to a dvd... Because even if you remove the spyware its still never the same.

I must admit I was very skeptical about getting a Mac at first, but now I have one I don't know how I used my PC without smashing the screen with my fist, haha :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4603958
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey bro, I've always used spybot search and destroy which has always worked for me but you still need to have anti virus software as well as a firewall and adware removers... You've got to remember to keep updating every thing and imunizing your system other wise your computer will keep getting infected. I use www.download.com as my main source where I get my software from. You don't need to pay for anything you can still get good stuff for free.

For starters use http://download.cnet.com/Avira-AntiVir-Per...4-10322935.html as your anti virus. I've found that avg anti virus doesn't work well for me and it slows down my computer. Use http://download.cnet.com/Spybot-Search-amp...4-10122137.html for your spyware problem. Use http://download.cnet.com/Comodo-Internet-S....html?tag=mncol as your firewall

There is a program called content cleaner that really helps the computer to run fast... (http://www.iobit.com/advancedwindowscareper.html) This program is great but you've got to keep all the definitions up to date.

If any more questions just comment on my profile... Good luck, hope I helped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4834592
Share on other sites

A bit of regular maintenance goes a long way too, clean out your cookies, cache, temp, history and prefetch folders.

+1, with my current desktop (I bulid 1.5 years ago or so) I have never had any major virus or spyware problems. I use NOD 32 for AV & spybot & spyware doctor for spyware. But in the end common sense is the best defense against these sort of problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4834623
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...