Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I normally recommend Spybot Search and Destroy, I used it for about 3 years.

But recenctly I haven't been able to run it because my computer is infected with spyware, the "firewall" keeps turning off and my virus scanner won't update automatically...

So, I bought a mac on the weekend.

EDIT: :);)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4588755
Share on other sites

I have found Super AntiSpyware and Malwarebytes' to be pretty good.

Also use Avast or AVG Antivirus

along with Spybot Search and Destroy

and Eusing Free Registry cleaner.

all free programs...

just don't go to dodgy porn sites and sign up your email to dodgy stuff!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4591090
Share on other sites

Spybot S&D and Adaware, use both.

If they can't fix it, then it's well beyond anything you can cope with and you need someone who knows what they're doing to remove the problem.

A bit of regular maintenance goes a long way too, clean out your cookies, cache, temp, history and prefetch folders.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4591736
Share on other sites

Malware bytes (free version, no need to upgrade to the paid one) and Spybot S & D

Both are quite good. I recently have found Malware Bytes to be better in picking up things that Spybot doesn't. Use a combination of both and between them they should pickup everything.

If these don't fix the problem, then you start to go into the territory on looking at the registry and using a program like hijack this to analyse what has been set to start from the registry. You need to be careful with this though as you can kill the computer if you don't know what you are looking for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4591753
Share on other sites

when a bought a new comp 3 years ago, my parents inheritted my old one, i wiped the hdd and completely reinstalled xp for them. within 2 weeks of them using it it was facked. even with norton 360 it got raped by malware, viruses, spammers, and blue screen of dooooom. i told mum, jokingly of course, that best way to get ridda the viruses n fix the comp was to zap the hdd in the microwave. she thought i was serious >.<* i bought them a new hdd and told them if they have any questions to call austin computers next time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4601319
Share on other sites

My old trade was I.T (I got bored siting in a shop all day) I used to tell my customers that I would fault find for 30mins, anything after that it was more economical to reinstall windows and burn their data to a dvd... Because even if you remove the spyware its still never the same.

I must admit I was very skeptical about getting a Mac at first, but now I have one I don't know how I used my PC without smashing the screen with my fist, haha :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4603958
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey bro, I've always used spybot search and destroy which has always worked for me but you still need to have anti virus software as well as a firewall and adware removers... You've got to remember to keep updating every thing and imunizing your system other wise your computer will keep getting infected. I use www.download.com as my main source where I get my software from. You don't need to pay for anything you can still get good stuff for free.

For starters use http://download.cnet.com/Avira-AntiVir-Per...4-10322935.html as your anti virus. I've found that avg anti virus doesn't work well for me and it slows down my computer. Use http://download.cnet.com/Spybot-Search-amp...4-10122137.html for your spyware problem. Use http://download.cnet.com/Comodo-Internet-S....html?tag=mncol as your firewall

There is a program called content cleaner that really helps the computer to run fast... (http://www.iobit.com/advancedwindowscareper.html) This program is great but you've got to keep all the definitions up to date.

If any more questions just comment on my profile... Good luck, hope I helped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4834592
Share on other sites

A bit of regular maintenance goes a long way too, clean out your cookies, cache, temp, history and prefetch folders.

+1, with my current desktop (I bulid 1.5 years ago or so) I have never had any major virus or spyware problems. I use NOD 32 for AV & spybot & spyware doctor for spyware. But in the end common sense is the best defense against these sort of problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269560-spyware-fix/#findComment-4834623
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...