Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the process of having a Hypergear turbo installed on my car. Stao from hypergear arranged for it all to be done by the workshop next door to him. I dropped the car in on Monday and it's now Thursday and I still don't have my car.

Everytime I call this workshop he's like ah yeh these things take time. Stao said the car would be there 2 days. I just called now again and the guy at the workshop is like yeh maybe this afternoon but if not it will be close. It's been 4 days.

This is starting to get rediculous. When I upgraded my turbo on my 200sx it took one and a half days and that was a top mount setup, so manifold, intercooler piping dump pipe and everything had to be done.

Anyone else had same experiences? I just want my car back.

Edited by deano27
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269975-hypergear-experiences/
Share on other sites

Arrrgh, you made the same mistake that i did! Now before stao says anything yes hypergear turbos are fantastic and stao is a great guy. He also arranged for the turbo to be installed by the next door workshop. I would DEFINATELY NOT get them to install the turbo. I had numerous problems with them including major oil leaks due to a dodgy home made banjo fitting etc. The didn't have any copper washers for the fitting(and no adapter plate) which was fair enough but after sending it to an Experienced peformance place they even asked if one of my mates done the job as it was very dodgy! The best thing i did was not go their again and take it to someone that does peformance modifications for a living, not just car servicing.

I wasted an extra $300 dollars taking it somewhere else but they did a great job.

Stao your turbos and service are great but please dont send people to that particular place. Please!!!

5 days is ludicrous, the thing that makes me te most angry is te fact that anytime I speak to Stao about it taking so long he just shrugs it off and says call the workshop.

Kevin, now I am really worried. I really hope I don't have oil leaks and problems like you did.

This turbo better be worth 5 days without a car.

Yeh , i did the turbo myself, its better to bring it to a person that does modifcations for a living... that place next door is rubbish!, but stao's turbos r crazy and his service is excellent!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

yeh, doing it urself, your way better off... been pretty happy with my hypergear tr43.

ive done it fair few times now....can take a turbo off a 33 in bout an hour and put on one in about 2-3... ready to go...so 5 days is pretty bloody bad..

you should use the mechanic your comfortable with, obviously Tao recommends that workshop because he is comfortable with them, but if ur not, then take it somewhere else or do it yourself.. some good tutorials on here on turbo upgrades.

Adam

Yeh in hindsite I know I should have done it myself. Only reason I didn't was because I needed to get the dump pipe made up anyway so I thought I'd just pay someone to do it all.

I can't comment on the turbo yet as I haven't had a chance to drive it obviously, but I would recommend anyone who is considering buying one of Stao's turbos to seek installation elsewhere.

I bet you Stao doesn't even get these guys to work on his own car.

Not everyone has the ability to do it themselves.

You must remember this.

Its often faster for a workshop being they have hoists, full tool sets and experience (generally), so it does make sense in many respects even when its easy to sit back and say "DIY".

5 days for a turbo fit though... lol... oh dear

Not everyone has the ability to do it themselves.

You must remember this.

Its often faster for a workshop being they have hoists, full tool sets and experience (generally), so it does make sense in many respects even when its easy to sit back and say "DIY".

5 days for a turbo fit though... lol... oh dear

that would be me :P

Status Tuning did the install for me, was happy to pay to make sure it was done right. Things could get very pricey if the install is done incorrectly.

EDIT: updated main hypergear thread with my dyno charts, G3, 76mm compressor wheel - OP6 rear housing, bolted onto NEO RB25DET

Not everyone has the ability to do it themselves.

You must remember this.

Its often faster for a workshop being they have hoists, full tool sets and experience (generally), so it does make sense in many respects even when its easy to sit back and say "DIY".

5 days for a turbo fit though... lol... oh dear

While this is true, i also believe in learning... I had nothing but the few tutorials and looking into the engine bay for ages until i decided Id have a crack.... first time it took me close to 8 hours, then 6..then 4... and so on...no mates, as they all know nothing about cars.... just me and my skyline...so if I went from not knowing how to change a wheel 2.5 years ago when i first bought a car to being able to fix/replace/change almost anything on the skyline Im sure others could too! :)

gl with it mate.

WYTSKY I definately agree. It's great to learn, I just couldn't make the dump pipe myself so that was my main reason for taking it there.

Well anyway, got my car back and all seems ok, except the dumb shits left it low on coolant when I picked it up.

Turbo is pretty good from first impression. Does have quite a bit more lag than stock as expected, but after about 3000 revs it pulls like crazy and I am only currently running 10psi.

I am getting it tuned in a couple of weeks, and getting my Z32 AFM and injectors installed and probably boost it to 16-18psi if the car doesn't mind so i'll update you all with my dyno sheets when it's all done.

I am really hoping for around the 250+rwkw mark.

glad all looks ok! May i recommend status tuning for your car. Had the atr28/g3 from hypergear tuned with a nistune. All obvious mods and stock afm AND injectors on rb25 neo and i'm making almost 230rwkw at 16psi in an auto, so in a manual u might get close to your mark without the need for z32 and injectors.

My hypergear turbo was quite laggy before my tune too but after the tune it was much much better.

Well its abit hard to say. First of all I'm not getting commission for referring them jobs. The people there are very genuine, their job quality has been good and they've been working on my cars since 2002 when I used to be a Jap car importer. I understand shit do happens to performance cars some times on the last minute, the important thing is that they are happy to go over their work if things goes wrong, and I won't put people’s joy and pride into untrust worthy hands.

Any way, The turbo is a TR43i 500HP .63 internally gated version. Which we pulled out 300rwkws with on a CA18det at Trents.

tr43hfca18det300rwkws.jpg

WYTSKY I definately agree. It's great to learn, I just couldn't make the dump pipe myself so that was my main reason for taking it there.

Well anyway, got my car back and all seems ok, except the dumb shits left it low on coolant when I picked it up.

Turbo is pretty good from first impression. Does have quite a bit more lag than stock as expected, but after about 3000 revs it pulls like crazy and I am only currently running 10psi.

I am getting it tuned in a couple of weeks, and getting my Z32 AFM and injectors installed and probably boost it to 16-18psi if the car doesn't mind so i'll update you all with my dyno sheets when it's all done.

I am really hoping for around the 250+rwkw mark.

yeh i had same issue, just get some1 u know to weld, or take it to an exhaust shop, or kkr dumps fit the same and u can buy those brand new.

I was aiming for the 250 mark.. ill be impressed if u get there... ive got all the supporting mods, got 230rwkw... torque and response was massive, but I think theres a bit of wastegate creap...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...