Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Victory at last!

I managed to launch twice cleanly without LC by stabbing the gas very quickly, revs shot up to 2850RPM and 2950RPM, let go of the brakes and got 3.9 sec both times! 0-20 m 2.254 and 100m 5.278 sec.

I then managed to rev to 3000RPM, let go of the brakes, revs shot up to 3200RPM and got a neat 4.0 sec. Lastly, stalled at 2500RPM and it went back to 4.4 sec.

So it seems that the launch "sweet spot" is somewhere between 2850 and 2950RPM.

Auto trans with 3 "R" settings. Shell-V-Power and K & N Filter back in.

If the revs don't go up to 2900-3000RPM immediately, there is no point waiting : the clutches just start slipping as the revs try to slowly creep up from 2000RPM.

Disengage back to neutral and try again by stomping on the gas very quickly.

Thanks for the advice mate!

I am glad to hear it! Still reckon there should be a 3.7 or 3.8 lurking there somewhere....

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I recorded the following 0 - 100kph times using a GTech pro RR device (settings RRR):

Automatic mode with launch control 3.764 seconds -flat surface

Automatic mode with no launch control 3.900 - flat surface

Manual Mode with launch control 3.820 -flat surface

Manual mode without launch 4.064 - uphill

This is for an ADM, premium, 22 degrees.

Tests were conducted at the track.

When the HKS 570 kit and Cobb custom tune (Croydon racing developments) are installed next week, I will post the enhanced 0- 100kph numbers for comparison purposes.

NICE!!

Victory at last!

I managed to launch twice cleanly without LC by stabbing the gas very quickly, revs shot up to 2850RPM and 2950RPM, let go of the brakes and got 3.9 sec both times! 0-20 m 2.254 and 100m 5.278 sec.

I then managed to rev to 3000RPM, let go of the brakes, revs shot up to 3200RPM and got a neat 4.0 sec. Lastly, stalled at 2500RPM and it went back to 4.4 sec.

So it seems that the launch "sweet spot" is somewhere between 2850 and 2950RPM.

Auto trans with 3 "R" settings. Shell-V-Power and K & N Filter back in.

If the revs don't go up to 2900-3000RPM immediately, there is no point waiting : the clutches just start slipping as the revs try to slowly creep up from 2000RPM.

Disengage back to neutral and try again by stomping on the gas very quickly.

Thanks for the advice mate!

Someone has to show me this method....I am getting bogged at 2,000revs.

Are you guys holding the brake pedal, stomping the gas and waiting for the revs to build, or are you one the brakes, stomp the gas and release just as the revs climb towards the 2,700 mark.

I just seem to have the car fighting the brakes, there is no progression past 2000 revs.

Someone has to show me this method....I am getting bogged at 2,000revs.

Are you guys holding the brake pedal, stomping the gas and waiting for the revs to build, or are you one the brakes, stomp the gas and release just as the revs climb towards the 2,700 mark.

I just seem to have the car fighting the brakes, there is no progression past 2000 revs.

It is pretty tricky and does not work 100% of the time.It took me quite a few tries to figure out what the other guys were trying to explain.

1. Press the brake hard with your left foot and hold.

2. Stab the accelerator as fast as you can: the ECU reads that speed of the gas pedal movement to the floor. You should get 2800-3000RPM in 70% of attempts.

If you press the gas pedal just a bit slower, it may seem fast enough, but your revs will only climb to 2000-2200RPM and stall.

3. If you get the 2800-3000RPM at the first attempt, let go of the brake before the revs stall at the limit and hold on to the steering wheel! You should hopefully record 0-100 in under 4 sec.

If the engine stalls at around 2000-2200RPM, you won't get any lower than 4.1-4.3 sec. The 0.2-03 sec difference is in the first 20m.

Good luck.

Edited by GT-Ricer
  • 2 weeks later...

On a similar note you're always at the mercy of the dealer playing with the tune.

Of note was my mates Typhoon last week that went in for the subwoofer to get fixed....they took it on themselves to reflash his ECU and wiped the tune that was on there, he went to pick it up and it was blowing smoke rings as the car had larger injectors, fuel pump etc etc.

All worked out in the end as on sale they had agreed to give a full 5 year FPV warranty on the modded rom and all accessories. They paid to get it retuned :blink:

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
I recorded the following 0 - 100kph times using a GTech pro RR device (settings RRR):

Automatic mode with launch control 3.764 seconds -flat surface

Automatic mode with no launch control 3.900 - flat surface

Manual Mode with launch control 3.820 -flat surface

Manual mode without launch 4.064 - uphill

This is for an ADM, premium, 22 degrees.

Tests were conducted at the track.

When the HKS 570 kit and Cobb custom tune (Croydon racing developments) are installed next week, I will post the enhanced 0- 100kph numbers for comparison purposes.

White R35 GTR completely stock 0-100KMH 3.5SEC

  • 3 weeks later...
The first second and a half after launch it feels like stretching an elastic band as the boost builds up and then all hell breaks loose. I am wondering if the brand new clutches need to bed in more because it feels very laggy from a dig, until a second or two after launch when it goes berserk.

i noticed this too on all the youtube vids ive been watching - there is this initial pause, the revs seem to rise up to 2000, pause there momentarily, then the car starts accelerating, very strange and only can assume its VDC cutting the power ?

my car only has 380km on the clock atm, but i will be giving it a shot once i get more kms on it

even after mod'd

Edited by domino_z
4 days into ownership and i have ALOT to learn :)

care to fill me in, or point me to another thread

Made the leap to the R35 aye Sam? What are your thoughts on it? Be pretty keen to hear your impressions on it and real world running costs further down the track.

Gotta post pics up! Especially on e46.f!

Still got the 7/2?

I dunno about the JDM vs ADM 12psi vs 15psi thing.

Anyway here is a recent 0~100km/hr run in my ADM (four wheels spinning mind you) mods are catback + e85 tune

0-100.jpg

Good work mate, 3.16 is a truely epic time for such minimal mods. Next thing.... do you throw on some drag tyres on the car and risk stripping the box for a better time or is that a good enough 0-100 for you? Is there any info of the higher speeds?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...