Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Paragon, the front calipers are yours.

And you said you might be interested in the rotors aswell, so im just gonna put them down for you aswell.

Putraged, the bare LHS door is yours.

OKBANANA, heres the problem, if i was to sell the manual conversion. Then im pretty sure the clutch pedal will be needed and pedal box lols.

But we'll see what happens.

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, this is just an Expression of Interest for stripping a R34. 

Things NOT included: Engine, and Manual Gearbox etc (Shehan had dibs on it) :P and ofcoarse the system.

Everything else is up for grabs guys. 

As i said its just an expression of interest to see if it will be worthwhile for me to start ripping the car apart or not. 

Goodies?

Carbon OEM Hood, has some damage on it though. 

Kakimoto Stainless Steal Catback. 

Splitfire Coilpacks 

Xenon Headlights ( Will sell pair unless you can organise for a person to buy a left if your after a right vice versa )

Other than all this, everything else in the car is stock

1999 Model Nissan Skyline 25GT Manual 2 Door. 

White

Shell not for sale. 

Thanks guys. 

And please forgive me if i reply late to PM's or Posts (max delay 12 Hours)

Planning to Strip next month. 

Note: No Bidding on items

Some of these parts will also be on eBay next month and will update the thread once i start to rip it apart and catalogue all the parts available.

MRXTCZ

interested in bonet pm price and mabee exust

how much for the bonnet shipped to melbourne???

and does it have lock pins

cheers

julz

still waiting on an answer for this question from last week chief

what kind of damage r we talking about here ????

cheers

julz

Edited by GUN_METAL_GTR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...