Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Track Car Build Up

4dirty2

By 4dirty2,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

4dirty2 Proficient

4dirty2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Shouldn't be to hard a car to build, its been done plenty of times before, I've got a mate putting a SR in his ceffy. keen to see it in action.

Do you own the Hilux with TONKA on the plates?

the problem with using gtr shell tho is that u cant use the sr cross member

an yeh tonka is my other money pit

Deluxe Grand Master

Deluxe

Posted
Posted
actually if he chucks in the RWD front cradle and does away with transfer case it will weigh less than a standard R32 RWD car

GTR's are only heavier due to transfer case and extra front shafts CV joints and all the bits and pieces to make em AWD

Finally someone with brains has posted!!

Weight will be distributed nicely with a SR, and have no problems with the power, You should see if TT have got or can get hold of some corner weights Dan, that way fuel pumps, battery and so fourth can be mounted keeping the weight distribution in mind.

Anyways mate, thinking outside the square.....I like it!! :P

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

interesting choice dan.

looking for a toy too now that i've sold the skyline but not looking to spend as much as u, only about 5k max.

Think either an s13 to do motorkhana's and hill climbs or trying to find a stock datsun 1200, leaning towards the s13 as i can probably have more fun in that and the 1200 has so far been very hard to find.

Benji Collaborator

Benji

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeh dan like I said to ya when u rang me n told me when ya got the gtr shell n told me what the go was...

think its wayyyyyyyyyy left field!!!!!! and might even possible work haha

that aside ill still call you a fag for using the SR for now haha!!

but should be alright buddy when it all done :P

as long as you put some tuff jap rims that have fitment on them :(

cant wait to get out to a hillclimb buddy n we do some runs :devil:

-Benji

Edited by Benji

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • funkymonkey
      Returning after a long time!

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • funkymonkey
      Phone photo thread

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • MBS206
      Belt flex under throttle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...