Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brendan have you had the tune? What's the latest on the AWKW front? Please tell me its over 230 as i am hoping to acheive that without the port and polish and poncams!

239rwkw @ 16psi

full boost at 4000rpm

real real nice tune

would push 240awkw @ 17psi surely....

as it is the stock injectors are now at their max.

sometime down the track I'll get S15 480cc injectors and refresh the remap ecu

(sold the sard intake setup I had)

enginebay09.jpg

scan0001-2.jpg

  • 3 months later...
  • 5 years later...

Hi guys,

I recently posted a topic about this as I have a series 2 Stagea with the Neo motor and have always found my car is anywhere between 15-30Kw lower than mates who have GTS-Ts. I'm running the usual bolt-ons with a larger turbo, injectors and pump and making 355Kw on e85. My other mates are around the 370-400Kw mark with same setup.

Its really interesting to come across this topic as I couldn't figure out why, however recently researching online found that GTS-Ts with the non-Neo RBs camshaft duration was 240°intake / 240°exhaust and lift 7.8mm intake / 7.8mm exhaust.

The Neo equivalent camshaft duration is 236°intake / 232°exhaust and lift: 8.4mm intake / 8.7mm exhaust.

Apparently Nissan fitted the NEO head later on, which enabled the engine to be classified as a low emission vehicle (LEV) engine due to their lower fuel consumption and emission output. This may partly explain why Stageas generally make less power as opposed to the R33s etc. Not sure what it means for the R34 which has the same engine as the series 2 stagea - it may very well have also received more aggressive CAMS due to being a sports car.

I doubt very much that the Stagea has different cams from the Skyline. I have attached a Tomei chart which shows that the R33 DE and DET have the same cam while the R34 Neo DET engine has a higher lift on the exhaust than the DE. The last of the S1 Stagea came out with the Neo engine (hence the later CAS). Of course the R33 and Neo cams are not interchangeable (solid lifters on the latter). Sorry can't attach the chart - hopefully link follows:

http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...