Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a problem with my car again its a R33 S2 and it is missfiring, I know this topic has been covered tons of times but I have fixed the missfire previously by buying new coilpacks. I bought JJR coilpacks and the missfire was gone for maybe 6 months, the car reved very smoothly all the way to redline... and now I'm getting a missfire at about 5000-5500rpm and up until then the car feels flat like it has no balls and then at about 6000rpm it feels like it takes off until redline.

Could this be that the coilpacks have fudged them selves?

Also I have replaced the spark plugs with iridium ones about 6 months ago just before i changed the coilpacks.

Any ideas? Could it be a injector?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271189-missfiring-again/
Share on other sites

there is a sticky in general maintenance, they say to tape up your coils due to tiny cracks in them(electrical tape). Might be worth checking a very cheap option, at least the u can diagnose the problem this way.

+1

Worked for me

there is a sticky in general maintenance, they say to tape up your coils due to tiny cracks in them(electrical tape). Might be worth checking a very cheap option, at least the u can diagnose the problem this way.

I got new JJR coils, they shouldnt need to be taped...but i guess if it stops missfirring when they are taped then this just means they are arking out then they are fooked...

My plugs are gapped to the standard irridium plug size which is 12mm i think. But they shouldnt need to be gapped if i got new coil packs rite??? They should be strong enough to make the spark jump accross stock gapped spark plugs?

Edited by da spike

change the plugs to BCPR6ES gapped to .8mm then put a little mark in texta on the spark plug where the electrode is open (ie where you can see the most of it) when doing up your spark plugs point that mark to the inlet manifold you would be surprised how often this will fix your problems you want the mixture to be ignited if the electrode is facing the exhaust manifold it wont run as well small point but makes a big difference

I'm interested in seeing what happens. I have spitfire coils and gapped my plugs to 0.8mm as almost everyone recommends and it run absolutely crap after 4,000 rpm, gapped them to 1.1 and revs out to redline beautifully.

i installed my splitfires today along with new plugs gapped to 0.8mm, idle's fine but when i go to drive my car is missfires hardcore even at low revs...! rkn i should regap to atleased 1mm?

Another question... how do you guys gap the plugs without fooking them? Just tap them down with a small hammer?

I just gave it kinda firm knocks on my workbench and a feeler gauge to verify the gap - seemed to do the trick fine.

I'm just thinking could this be RnR? Because i would find it hard to believe that the coilpacks would have shit them selves after a few months use and i have changed the sparkies too when changing coilpacks to irridium ones... The missfire or popping under acceleration usually happens on a really cold night, the car also feels like it has a flat spot from 4500rpm to 6000rpm and then from 6 onwards its fine...

if it is happening more when it is cold then it may be rnr. but remember that the VCT turns off at 4500rpm so you do get a bit of a flat spot there.

to gap the plugs you need a feeler gauge. basically it is a set of small sheets of metal all different sizes.

i personally think iridium spark plugs are a waste of time. the set in my old 33 were shagged after about 20,000kms. i put the ones listed above in and changed them after 10,000kms and they were still fine. they are only a few dollars a plug.

as for there the tip of the plug is and marking it with a pen and trying to align it with the manifold, you may find that doesn't always work, without ending up with either it too loose or way too tight. however it shouldn't really make a difference as the valve will be closed well before the spark plug fires

Ok I got BCPR6ES plugs and threw them in and took the car for a spin just quickly and it looks like its not missfiring anymore... :D But I will need to drive it more to make sure because sometimes the missfire would be tempremental..

But what it's still doing is running shit from about 4500rpm all the way to 6000rpm and then it kicks in hard. Do you guys think this is rnr?

By the way I'm running standard boost and its going up to about 9-10psi cause its a cold night and exhaust, intercooler.

i personally think iridium spark plugs are a waste of time. the set in my old 33 were shagged after about 20,000kms. i put the ones listed above in and changed them after 10,000kms and they were still fine. they are only a few dollars a plug.

The iridium ones i took out (i put these in about 10,000 kms ago) were pretty fouled up so i guess copper ones are the cheaper alternative...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...