Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried to put an rb26 gearbox into an r32 with an rb25. Reason for wanting to do so is, i have a stock rb20det gearbox in there atm and its not going to hold up the power its making. RB26 gearboxes are heeps cheaper than rb25 and I can modify it myself to RWD, i have done one before for a silvia conversion.

Just wondering if anyone knows where or not the gtr32 cross member will bolt straight up, and whether or not anyone knows for sure if rb26 gearboxes are stronger than rb25 ones? Also would a RB25 Nismo slave fit onto a RB26 box? Im assuming that all RB gearboxes have the same 2 bolt pattern

thanks for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271700-rb26-gearbox-into-rb25-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

anyone?? Im gonna buy an RB26 gearbox and just give it a shot. Damm well hope it works. But some info first would be great if anyone knows anything

A full write up/tutorial on the modifications to gearbox would be awesome...please.

Only problem with a 26 box instead of a 25 one is that you know that the 26 will have copped a lot more abuse over its lifetime..

thats BS and means nothing....

if you gonna say that then you could say a GTR box will have been serviced better.

to be honest i think GTST's are driven harder than GTR's....

hmm. So you are trying to tell me that every japanese gtr owner actually serviced their gearbox, ever.. or gave a crap. Let alone factor in the added power and torque on the mechanical workings and the added load on the output of the 4wd system..

hmm. So you are trying to tell me that every japanese gtr owner actually serviced their gearbox, ever.. or gave a crap. Let alone factor in the added power and torque on the mechanical workings and the added load on the output of the 4wd system..

hell no.

but you were trying to tell me that no GTST owners thrash their cars!

i see where your coming from but there's way too many variables to be able to say that GTR boxes will be in a worse condition.

Hey,

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried to put an rb26 gearbox into an r32 with an rb25. Reason for wanting to do so is, i have a stock rb20det gearbox in there atm and its not going to hold up the power its making. RB26 gearboxes are heeps cheaper than rb25 and I can modify it myself to RWD, i have done one before for a silvia conversion.

Just wondering if anyone knows where or not the gtr32 cross member will bolt straight up, and whether or not anyone knows for sure if rb26 gearboxes are stronger than rb25 ones? Also would a RB25 Nismo slave fit onto a RB26 box? Im assuming that all RB gearboxes have the same 2 bolt pattern

thanks for any help

chur i put a r32 gtr box in my cefiro but i didnt cut the transfer case off so had to cut a hole in the gearbox tunnel for that the crossmember doesnt fit i got a custom made 1 and yea the slave is the same i used my 20de slave on mine abit of a tight fit but it does would of fit straight in if it wasnt for dat transfer case

you cut up your car befor the gearbox lol, your mad. Im hoping the crossmember will fit because its from a r32. I will post progress pics when i recieve the gearbox, just after the damn freight company stops stuffing around the little fella!!

i reckon everything will bolt up except the crossmember. i've just done my clutch yesterday and contemplated the same change your talking about - but i reckon it's risky. even though 26 box's are cheaper then 25's it's still a fair bit of money to risk buying then finding you need to mod your crossmember.

  • 8 years later...

hi good day guys. im currently doing this said conversion on a nissan c33, i got the shaft done yesterday but my problem is the bracket itself is too low for the car. i really dont want to cut my car to send the box higher is their any other options? the box works perfect and the ratio is heavenly just i can barely drive the car would some coilovers help?

 

12 hours ago, _libra_nation_23 said:

hi good day guys. im currently doing this said conversion on a nissan c33, i got the shaft done yesterday but my problem is the bracket itself is too low for the car. i really dont want to cut my car to send the box higher is their any other options? the box works perfect and the ratio is heavenly just i can barely drive the car would some coilovers help?

 

 

This post suffers from not being at all clear what the problem is.  How would coilovers solve anything to do with how the gearbox sits in relation to the rest of the car?  And more importantly, what bracket are you talking about?  The gearbox crossmember or the centre bearing mount, or what?

 

  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/7/2017 at 2:27 AM, GTSBoy said:

 

This post suffers from not being at all clear what the problem is.  How would coilovers solve anything to do with how the gearbox sits in relation to the rest of the car?  And more importantly, what bracket are you talking about?  The gearbox crossmember or the centre bearing mount, or what?

 

The gearbox cross member

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...