Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've read all the suspension threads, watched the old Whiteline group buy 'happen' and finally decided that upgrading the rear bar on my S1 was on the agenda...

So I picked up a non-adjustable Whiteline bar (BNR11X), mindful of the fact that the rear cradle in the non-260RS models is a little wider than the GT-R/260RS.

Guess what? It didn't fit - by a mile. There was no way that this bar would mate up with the Stagea mounting points. Even an adjustable bar would have the end links on an unacceptable angle, and the main span was just too short.

So I returned it this morning and got talking with the staff at the store (Car Torque in Kent Town, Adelaide) about the situation.

They called Whiteline and got some measurements out of them (which were confirmed as not suitable), we also discussed some of the relationships, ownerships & politics now in play between Whiteline (Redmans) and Selbys. Note that Selbys spun off as an independant company from Whiteline when Redmans (Noltec) took over a couple of years back (post the original group-buy). This has significantly changed the landscape in regards to availability and in some cases the QA of the parts that are now on offer.

Now Selbys web site does list a bar to suit the C34, but it's the same part as the 33GTST & 33GTR - which we all know are not an ideal fit, and in some cases, not a fit at all.

So here's what's happening; Car Torque are sending my factory rear bar to Selbys for a direct copy (ETA ~10 days). They are getting a few made in both adjustable & non-adjustable for stock here in Adelaide (and keeping a template for the future). So, if you want to get a bar that fits, 100% - no stuffing around, then contact Car Torque ( [email protected] ) and get involved. I don't know how much the bars will be yet, but will post when I do. But they did tell me that they get a significant number of issues such as this (Toyota Aristo for example) that it now warrants them keeping an inventory of 'custom' bars that aren't officially listed by the manufacturer, but are in demand.

This isn't a group buy, nor a FS, but a community service to those who need something better than the OEM 'tent pole' that pretends to be a rear sway bar on the 1st generation Stagea - and don't want to have problems installing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272144-rear-swaybars-to-suit-c34-that-fit/
Share on other sites

my RS4S rear bar was sent off to 2 years ago to re-profile the original design as it fouled the exhaust.

i wonder who has that profile stored??

The story I got on that front was that unless the profile was one that was derived from the manufacturers own R&D (i.e. not from a customer) they considered the bar to be a one-off and wouldn't catalogue it.

(I suppose because there is a chance that your bar isn't really what you claim it is...therefore who has the liability for errors?)

Another warning: if you order the front bar from the group buy list, BNR27(Z) you are likely to get a bar which is exactly the same as the one you have (22mm). You need to specify BNR27 X or XX (Z for adjustable) and that it needs to be 24mm for a Stagea. These are made to order. I went to a lot of trouble (and expense) to get one sent from Selby to me in NZ only to destroy it in a crash a few months later. I won't bother replacing it though as it seemed to make little difference and an even heavier one could induce understeer. Luckily the rear one fitted and was a worthwhile upgrade.

i discussed the issue with SK and with Whiteline. we overlayed both bars and there was a larger space on the factory bar to relieve the exhaust compared to the Whiteline bar so at their expense they took my original rear bar and made a new one.

i would be surprised if they didn't keep the profile for all other stageas since it was profiled from an OEM bar and would suit RS4S, RS4V and 260RS.

SK was useless for that shit.

i got my bars through GT suspension, just be very clear when ordering.... good to see you are sending in your bar

i reccomend the front bar too, and both as adjustables(unless fixed is same as full hard)

I'm not sure where the adjustable settings fit when compared to the fixed bar. I guess measuring the location of the adjustment holes and comparing them to the fixed bar would be the only real way to tell - Anyone with a fixed (OEM/aftermarket) bar & adjustable one want to compare the end-section lengths in relation to the holes?

Ryan, what size is your front bar; 22 or 24mm?

and

What position do you have your in?

I'm mindful of going too big not only for understeer/oversteer reasons, but on the early S30 Z chassis' the mounts could actually tear out of the body with really stiff bars fitted...

I'm hoping that the late model stuff has a few extra welds around the threaded sections of the bodywork, but it really sux when you tear a mounting out of the floor!

(Thankfully I haven't had that problem on my car!)

Also, I took the C34 for a drive tonight (had a need for 2 cars on the road at once) and you know, I couldn't really tell that there was no rear bar fitted... Either I didn't turn corners hard enough, or it's exceptionally piss-poor from factory!

:)

Yep rear bar is p- weak from factory 19mm hollow (I cut mine in half to check) new one is 22mm solid - big difference. I bought non- adjustable. I reckon you could do your own alternative mounts if you really wanted.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...