Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i got my hands on a GTR BOV and a bigger hose for the plumb back and connected it all back up just like the stock GTT one was.

all is well but when i come on boost say around 0.5bar maybe more (highflow turbo set to 1 bar) while still in gear and and let of the accelerator the car makes the normal psssh sound but it also makes a (very hard to describe) different noise also. kinda like a viberation noise but not quite.

ill see if i can get a recording of it.

but has anyone else experienced anything different with a GTR BOV?

im not having any other problem. car is holding boost fine. idleing fine. just the noise. and the strange noise is pretty loud too if your outside or have the window down.

help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272686-gtr-bov-in-gtt-not-sounding-right/
Share on other sites

i get the same bloody noise. if i boot it, no noise. if im barely making boost no noise. its during normal accelleration that it makes it. a kinda honking vibration

when's the next meet? i'll show you if you rock up. remind me or some shiz

around 6seconds into the vid, does it sound like that? If i get it onto boost abit and then half throttle, it will do that sound. A mate thinks it sounds like a poo going down the pipes LOL

thats the sound hahahaha

thats it. like taking a bog with your ass sealed and you get that deap noise lol

any idea what it is??? if its anything bad? at first i though it was just the stiffer springs not opening enough. if i accelerate hard, change gears and accelerate again its fine. only whne slowly getting of boost it makes the noise.

hey not exactly on topic here but...along the lines i guess.

ive got a gtr blow off valve and i removed my standard r34 gtt one to replace with gtr, now when i pushed the valve up into the gtt one it is very stiff and hard but when i push the gtr one (with my fingers fron the sealed side) it feels softer...has anyone experienced this with there blow fof valve as i dont want to put the gtr one on and go for a tune with it if its stuffed ya know!

any help would be much appreciated.

hey ash,

long time no speak... i changed my gtst bov to a gtr one and also got that exact same issue! but i got rid of it..

i dont know if its the same for u, but the pipe i got to suit wasn't exactly perfect and I had a guess that the sound was of some air in the pipe as it was expanding or contracting... anyway, got a hose joiner to try to keep it more solid, and worked fine, not an issue any more!

can send u some pics if u want :ermm:

Adam

hey not exactly on topic here but...along the lines i guess.

ive got a gtr blow off valve and i removed my standard r34 gtt one to replace with gtr, now when i pushed the valve up into the gtt one it is very stiff and hard but when i push the gtr one (with my fingers fron the sealed side) it feels softer...has anyone experienced this with there blow fof valve as i dont want to put the gtr one on and go for a tune with it if its stuffed ya know!

any help would be much appreciated.

i thought that was normal? i swear there are some threads around about that and it turned out fine... my gtr bov is alot softer then my gtst one, but it does the job better so I assume its fine...

O great, another thread with somebody being worried about how their blow off valve sounds :(

oh wow thanks for your input...

vidospace the advantage with a GTR BOV is it holds more boost. only worth it if your running more boost then stock really as its a plumb back so its nice and legal.

alright, took some shots.

not the prettiest thing in the world, but she works well. definitely alleviated a lot of tension across the pipe.

im pretty sure it was a radiator hose bleeder or something, because I had to buy that gold blocking screw. was like 30 bucks all up and works fine.

post-36975-1243925653_thumb.jpg post-36975-1243925684_thumb.jpg

you can see in this pic, this is how it used to look (im pulling on the hose)

post-36975-1243925744_thumb.jpg

Adam

P.S u can leave the screw out and it gives it a lil bit more of a whistle, but im not into that sorta thing :banana:

I slapped a GTR bov on my car after I got rid of the megasonic ears bleed loud wank bov. I then got stickered to made it plumb back. It made that fats noise. Like air was blowing past the rubber pipe making in vibrate sounding like a fart. Another of my friends gets that too. Wonder why that happens. It atmo again as I got the sticker off. so meh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...