Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jus spent the last hour on search trying to figure this out and this wat i make of it....pleases correct me if im wrong....

there are 4 cradle bushes which need cradle to b dropped and bushes pressed in/out. alot of work and labour.

u can buy solid alloy bush cradle inserts x 8 which stiffen rear up but sum say gets noisy sum say not. cradle stays on

then theres pineapples x4 which depending on how its mounted promotes traction/grip or drift. cradle stays on.

how do u know which option to go for and wat u need. im after grip, reduce tramping and general upgrade of worn bushes. i found a nice basic diagram showing where pineapples go for different results.

sorry for being 'slow' but jus after a simple breakdown of the whole thing.

then also u can get rear diff bushes x4.

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272740-info-on-rear-cradle-bushes-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

get the alloy ones i did im im very happy for it

the noise factor is so small ill bet 5 that you probably will never notice it mate

but you will notice the car is heaps better to drive

did u replace the inner bushes, or just the subframe-chassis bushes? the real NVM comes from when u solid mount the inner bushes as well, which a lot of people dont.

for a daily i would stick with Urethane, especially if ur running a lot of rubber around the place and softish suspension. there are usually other causes to the axle tramp before ur subframe bushes.

What do you mean by "worn"? The rear subframe bushes are silicone filled, they need replacing when they burst and the silicone starts dripping out. If there is no silicone leak then they don't need replacing. In which case pineapples are the go as you can change the rear subframe angle, something R32's really need.

Cheers

Gary

did u replace the inner bushes, or just the subframe-chassis bushes? the real NVM comes from when u solid mount the inner bushes as well, which a lot of people dont.

for a daily i would stick with Urethane, especially if ur running a lot of rubber around the place and softish suspension. there are usually other causes to the axle tramp before ur subframe bushes.

i solid mounted the lot and im very happy

including solid uretane for the diff which means you ca hear the diff but its unrelated

come and have a drive of mine if your local and see for your self

i solid mounted the lot and im very happy

including solid uretane for the diff which means you ca hear the diff but its unrelated

come and have a drive of mine if your local and see for your self

isnt the diff solid anyway? lol

may be different on GTR's, i know R32 GTS-t's are solid, R33 GTS-t's have a bush on the front mount.

i dont care a great deal about NVM so its not something i look a lot into lol

when i got the car it was pretty much bone stock as well, but it had been converted to a manual, and a fairly budget job as well, maybe they came out when they did the conversion :S

i run some urethane bushes i made up with my R33 diff at the front mounts as it needs to be spaced down, but nothing for the 32 diff.

so the cradle bushes only need changing if they leak... ok ... mine arnt leaking so that answers that question

next is the difference between the cradle inserts and pineapples. which one applies when ?? thanx for all the replies....

u have bushes IN the subframe, where the bolts go through which holds the subframe to the chassis, then u have bushes that sit between the subframe and the chassis. the ones that sit in between the subframe and chassis "align" ur subframe, so u can change the tilt, which changes the amount of squat u get.

The cradle bushes near the doors are silicone filled, if they're stuffed its fairly obvious, the rear ones are solid rubber. When I replace my cradle bushes the front were stuffed but the rears were still ok, no tears in the rubber and looked good. It is harder to tell if the rears are gone. I replaced all four and even though only the fronts were stuffed it was noticeable under hard acceleration out of corners that there was a positive difference. Didn't notice it at all when driving normally though. If the cars a long term proposition then I would do the cradle bushes if not then you would probably get away with the pineapples.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...