Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am still deciding if i should purchase this turbo I saw. Dont know the exact specs but the seller tells me its a 700-800hp garret turbo. What I like to know is how much KW's I could expect atw? Turbo starts kicking in before & after internals? What specific parts are needed for internals if I were to utilise all the power available? And lastly a good workshop that is familiar with skylines to make the manifold and tuning?

Thanks in advance and sorry bout all the questions, just need to make sure if I should go ahead with the purchase.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/
Share on other sites

You could have a 700hp turbo that makes boost at 3800rpm or one that doesnt till 4500, you really need to know specs.. internals will allow you to run higher boost and revs, but wont really effect the spool up time of the turbo, but once again depends on what cams, what exhaust, what turbo specs, how much and how big your piping is, what intake you run :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-573429
Share on other sites

When anyone selling your something tell you it SHOULD like in your case recon it will make 700hp, usually turns out to be full of shit, the turbo is a truck turbo where u would need a rotor that revs to 10grand to get it to sppol up or is totally farked with farked core and wheel!

But it if is a real 700hp tubro i hope u have 10 grand min to spend of other parts to actually get it to run properly!

Either way i think u r dreaming if u r thinking on putting it on a stock car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-573512
Share on other sites

If you are serious about building a big hp car, I would only suggest that you go out and buy a book called Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. Perfect if you are new to the world of forced induction. You will be able to ask the right questions and have a pretty good idea of when someone is pulling your leg.

Just consider too that even circuit cars dont make this much power as it is too much for them, so it would be a waste of time on anything but probably a drag strip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-573603
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input.....

The turbo did come from a rotor and the owner reckons its a t5 (watever that is!). Anyways I guess u guys r right, its quite a lot of power as my initial aim was to get 300kw. I have done some calculations and 10K would be roughly wat I need to get this figure if parts r seconhand n not touching the internals.

In the mean time I'll just b patient for the right turbo to come along then.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-575825
Share on other sites

Steve,

U think 10K is too low. Ive based most things to b 2nd hand (turbo at least!) and have already included labour. My car is quite stock, the usual mods - exhaust, filter, boost, I/C waiting to b installed. I like to keep the internals stock to achieve close to 280-300Kw. Wat have u done so far? Wat r u getting atw?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-578417
Share on other sites

700HP is too much for a streetable or track-able skyline. Only good for drag racing - It's all or nuthing. And like Steve says, plan on spending 10-15K on the engine to be able to handle the power - then clutch, then driveline, gearbox, diff, driveshafts, then you got to brake - suspension, handling, tyres.

......and the list goes on !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-578448
Share on other sites

Well my car was completely stock, so far

HKS 3037S56T

Manifold

Clutch

Cooler (you already have)

ECU

EBC

full exhaust

wastegate

CAI and podbox

Plenum

Wheels

Cradle bushes, and hardmount bushes

castor bushes

Coilovers

strut braces

sway bars

several tunes for different stages, ranging from 200 to 600 a go

Body kit (I justified this cos I wanted a big hole for my cooler)

Cams

Cam gear

Headgasket

A second plenum cos the first didnt deliver

injectors

fuel pump

and a few other bits that dont rate a mention. I had a mate ask me what I had spent on the car to day (before another 1.2k for a plenum, or actually getting the cams and head gasket and new plenum fitted, which looks like it is going to cost 1.5K all up with all the added gaskets, head skimmed etc) and it was just on 30K so already that is closer to 35 (still have brake upgrade to do and camber arms and tyres)

the biggest problem so far is getting the power down - I have 256 at 1 bar, but on 1.2 bar (not sure what it has) I cant get traction in any gear, so I will be buying some rear camber arms and some nitto tyres - hopefully sort it out. I have the head gasket going in this week, hopefully tune next week.

Just a decent turbo set up is going to cost you close to 5K all up, need a decent ecu tuned (2K+), and a good clutch(1.2-1.5+), fuel pump(400 and injectors(1k)

With the mods you have, you may just make it under 10k, but dont count on it - you still have to install the injectors, clutch and fuel pump - there is another 6-700. the above costs are conservative, like everything else the costs always blow out.

Good luck - but I seriously doubt you car will be very driveable with a 700+hp turbo. Much better off going for a good steetable setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27278-700hp-turbo-setup/#findComment-578530
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...