Jump to content
SAU Community

Whiteline Suspension Work

quarkgun
 Share

Recommended Posts

quarkgun Proficient

quarkgun

Posted
Posted

Gday guys,

Just wanted to get a feel off someone who's had the work done before;

I got quoted $1400 for supply and fitting of the following items;

F-Swaybar 24mm-h/duty Blade adjustable BNF24Z $229.09

R-Swaybar 22mm-X heavy duty BNR11X $229.09

Caster adj kit-radius rod bush KCA331 $125.73

Sub-frame align & lock kit KCA349 $124.91

That's about $700 worth of labour... seems pretty excessive to me, but i dont know how much work is actually involved...

So in summary, that's front+rear swaybars, pineapples, radius rod bushes and an alignment.

What do you think? Should I be looking for another quote and if so, where?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272883-whiteline-suspension-work/
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

try and get 25 more off of the pineapples, and ~200 off of the labor IMO. Depends how much work fitting pineapples is. I estimated based on fitting both end camber kits being the same as fitting pineapples.

I would consider doing camber kits at the same time, just so it is all the same age, and won't need another alignment.

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

If they're supplying it, as well as fitting it, I’m assuming they've done that type of work before? It does seem a bit excessive though, even if they charge $100 p/h, but they may just be over quoting. It might pay just to ring around and get a quote elsewhere to compare.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Pedders wanted to charge me $20 for each bushing they would press out. I said yeah no worries (insert sarcasm) and ended up doing it myself. Yes it took longyer, yes I have higher blood pressure as a result. But I saved near $500 and love my car even more!

As above, do what you can, search the forums and ask for advice from people who know.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

swaybar fitting was probably too easy to get its own thread, so I will try in 3 easy steps:

jack up you car and put it on stands on LEVEL ground

undo the links at either end of the swaybar where they connect to the lower control arm,

undo the 4 bolts that hold the bracket for the sway bar, and remove the sway bar.

then, as the workshop manual says...."installation is the reverse of removal"

this is one easy job. personally I wouldn't try bushes myself without the right tools and knowledge, there are some tricks with pressing out and back in, to me its one of the jobs that it is easier to pay fo.

quarkgun Proficient

quarkgun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Duncan. I did the sway bars today, easy as pie, and really makes a big difference to the feel of the car around corners. Hardest part was I needed to remove the radius rods to get at the d-bracket bolt. All up, took about 2 hours.

As for the radius rod bushes, when the mechanics open, i'll get someone to pop out the old bushes, and pop in the new. Installation of the rod itself will be easy.

Then just the pineapples to go. Would have done it today, but ran out of time and needed to get to work :( bummer

Hopefully should have it all ready for Oran Park :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...