Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe I'm just having a whinge, but the area where the wheels nuts go into the stock 17" stagea rims are marked twice as bad as they were before it was serviced.

Argh, is it just bad tradesmanship or don't they have the right tools to get the nuts in and out without marking the metal?

Ok, that's my gripe for the day! *phew*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/
Share on other sites

mine are like that too

i guess the socket they use isnt small enough to not mark the wheels

mine arent that bad, wanna buy mine?? :P

new rubber.......

Bah, my next change will be to 19" Osaka Mannus with Falken tread :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4636265
Share on other sites

Bah, my next change will be to 19" Osaka Mannus with Falken tread :P

I've just had a look at the catalogue and these wheels have the same exposed alcove where the nuts go, except that area is painted black :D

A few wheel rotations and they are going to be chewed up and marked on the inside of the holes too :mad:

Yes, I'm fussy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4636297
Share on other sites

A few wheel rotations and they are going to be chewed up and marked on the inside of the holes too :mad:

Yes, I'm fussy!

So you should be!

:P Shoddy workmanship. Lack of respect for the customers wheels, lack of care etc, etc. :D

I made sure that when my car went in for a wheel alignment that;

1. they had my tools that fit the wheel holes without fouling (the socket I have is a very thin wall - needed for my wheels)

2. they were aware that the rims were in perfect condition & if I received them in poorer condition, they will be paying for a new set (they were also told of the price of a new set)

3. had the manager agree and sign to it.

Screw 'em. They are a "specialist" which is why you entrust them with your car. They should treat it better than their own.

Needless to say, the wheels came back in perfect condition.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4636490
Share on other sites

That F#*%*ing crap happened to me too..just took the car to have a screw pulled from one of the wheels (just to prevent something to happen) so long story short they used a shorter tool (not mine one) and wrecked all the holes in my rim... :(

As Cam said it's a lack of conminmet and respect for the customer... :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4636775
Share on other sites

It seems to be a lack of respect for other peoples property, don't know why. :banana: If I damaged ANY of the machinery I work on I would be looking for a new job...

Whenever I have tyres fitted I insist the fitters NOT use rattle guns to tighten wheel nuts.

My mechanic works on some big dollar machinery and uses plastic coated sockets on wheel nuts, they also have a ball clutch to prevent overtightening.

You can purchase these at supercheap, surely they would be worth the spend if you were a tyre fitter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4636870
Share on other sites

It was done by Nissan during the 60,000km service I had done yesterday. They had the wheels off to check brakes and suspension etc, they ended up replacing front brake pads, machining the discs and doing a tyre rotation.

You would think when you were paying big bucks to the dealer that they would be a little more careful.

Don't get me wrong the wheels were not immaculate, they were already scratched but they are far worse now :bunny:

I'm just hesitant to fit nice new wheels to it if that's how they are going to treat them when they use the rattle gun, it's not that hard to be careful it just takes a little effort.

Argh!!!! lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4637263
Share on other sites

It was done by Nissan during the 60,000km service I had done yesterday. They had the wheels off to check brakes and suspension etc, they ended up replacing front brake pads, machining the discs and doing a tyre rotation.

You would think when you were paying big bucks to the dealer that they would be a little more careful.

Don't get me wrong the wheels were not immaculate, they were already scratched but they are far worse now :)

I'm just hesitant to fit nice new wheels to it if that's how they are going to treat them when they use the rattle gun, it's not that hard to be careful it just takes a little effort.

Argh!!!! lol

Simple solution Stephen.

Get the nice wheels.

Specify to Nissan that they are NOT to take ANY of the wheels off. If you need to rotate the wheels (check for one-way the tread), do it yourself.

Whenever I take my car to Nissan (not often), I always specify for them NOT to touch oil/oil filter, Not to remove wheels and NOT to replace air filter.

I hate getting the Stag back and the bolts that hold the undercarriage on have been done up mechanically and stripped the thread or even popped out the bit you screw into.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4637997
Share on other sites

Simple solution Stephen.

Get the nice wheels.

Specify to Nissan that they are NOT to take ANY of the wheels off. If you need to rotate the wheels (check for one-way the tread), do it yourself.

Whenever I take my car to Nissan (not often), I always specify for them NOT to touch oil/oil filter, Not to remove wheels and NOT to replace air filter.

I hate getting the Stag back and the bolts that hold the undercarriage on have been done up mechanically and stripped the thread or even popped out the bit you screw into.

Must you always be so logical!! :banana:

I'll try the original avenue first, as in tell them I do not want a rattle gun used to remove or fit the wheels, ask that they be done by hand with a tool and they take all care possible not to damage the wheels.

I think for some strange reason I thought Nissan would be a little more gentle and a lot more professional than backyard bob and his dodgy sidekicks :):ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4638041
Share on other sites

youll probably find that backyard bob will take more care as he NEEDS the business, but nissan have cars coming in under warranty and people assume you MUST go back to the dealer you bought the car from for servicing. so therefore they dont give a shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4638081
Share on other sites

youll probably find that backyard bob will take more care as he NEEDS the business, but nissan have cars coming in under warranty and people assume you MUST go back to the dealer you bought the car from for servicing. so therefore they dont give a shit.

You stop being logical too ok :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273171-stock-17-wheels/#findComment-4638166
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...