Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Rb25 Spark But No Fuel. Wont Start !

BigC1988

By BigC1988,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BigC1988 Enthusiast

BigC1988

Posted
Posted

I put a RB25 S2 in my R32. We finished the wiring but only cranks and won't start. The engine is getting spark but no fuel. The fuel pump works fine but still noting. We put fuel in the intake and it start up fine. Im guessing the injectors arent firing. The grey wire gives 12V but when I try to start it it goes down to about 8V or lower. I still have to put a 12V wire on the VCT, AAC ect wire. Could this keep the injectors from firing?

Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted

Well, if the injectors are ticking, that means they should be working. THat's the sound of them opening. You say the pump works. How did you verify? Do you have good pressure? Did you actually check to see if it's getting to the rail? Did you put the fuel lines going into the rail backwards?

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted
Have you got the fuel lines on the right way? (yes stupid question, I know)

Have you got fuel pressure? (just because the pump works doesn't measn you have pressure)

LOL its not that much of a stupid question....its been done HAHA.

BigC1988 Enthusiast

BigC1988

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I took the line of , cranked the engine and fuel came out of the line

Well, if the injectors are ticking, that means they should be working. THat's the sound of them opening. You say the pump works. How did you verify? Do you have good pressure? Did you actually check to see if it's getting to the rail? Did you put the fuel lines going into the rail backwards?
BigC1988 Enthusiast

BigC1988

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i measured the gray wire it shows it has 12 v .. and when i measure the ground wire it also shows 12v, when the key switch is on "run".

when I test the wires together (the gray wire, injector ground ) it shows around 2v , 3volt..(when the key switchis on "run") what could be the problem?

Well, if the injectors are ticking, that means they should be working. THat's the sound of them opening. You say the pump works. How did you verify? Do you have good pressure? Did you actually check to see if it's getting to the rail? Did you put the fuel lines going into the rail backwards?
Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted

Did you double check to make sure your fuel lines aren't put on backwards? It happens a lot. That's why I mentioned it and blind elk echoed the same thing less than a minute later. Very common.

BigC1988 Enthusiast

BigC1988

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes i double checked , they arent put on backwards, did you see my post about the voltage?

Did you double check to make sure your fuel lines aren't put on backwards? It happens a lot. That's why I mentioned it and blind elk echoed the same thing less than a minute later. Very common.
BigC1988 Enthusiast

BigC1988

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you double check to make sure your fuel lines aren't put on backwards? It happens a lot. That's why I mentioned it and blind elk echoed the same thing less than a minute later. Very common.

I first changed the fuel filter and removed the regulator and put the switch on "run", let it pump for 2 sec and then put it back on. After that I tried again and VRooommm !! I guess the rail (and injectors) were dirty. Tomorrow I'll clean then and hope that that.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Carlos

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
I put a RB25 S2 in my R32. We finished the wiring but only cranks and won't start. The engine is getting spark but no fuel. The fuel pump works fine but still noting. We put fuel in the intake and it start up fine. Im guessing the injectors arent firing. The grey wire gives 12V but when I try to start it it goes down to about 8V or lower. I still have to put a 12V wire on the VCT, AAC ect wire. Could this keep the injectors from firing?

swap the supply and return lines around.

  • 12 years later...
240jesus Newbie

240jesus

Posted
Posted
On 6/12/2009 at 2:38 AM, BigC1988 said:

I first changed the fuel filter and removed the regulator and put the switch on "run", let it pump for 2 sec and then put it back on. After that I tried again and VRooommm !! I guess the rail (and injectors) were dirty. Tomorrow I'll clean then and hope that that.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Carlos

Hey so I’m having a similar issue is there anyway you can show me how you cleaned the fuel rail

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...