Jump to content
SAU Community

Adjustable Cam Gears On S2 R33 Problem?

ps13_jason
 Share

Recommended Posts

ps13_jason Explorer

ps13_jason

Posted
Posted

hey hows it goin, last night was fitting cam gears to s2 rb25det engine and when i went to put the intake cam gear on it wouldnt line up?

it has vvt but i was getting rid of that and run adjustable cam gears.

the cam gears are JJR and they are identical intake and exhaust.

i have spoken to them and they suggested jump on the forums to get some ideas from other people.

anyone fitted adjustable cam gears to s2 r33 with success?

thanks

jason

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

It should really just slip back onto the belt nicely. If the cam gear teeth don't line up with the belt, but try adjusting the gear either advanced or retarded until it slips back, this isn't ideal as you'll have to remember that position is actually neutral (I think thats how it works anyway).

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey hold on for a second, don't get rid of your VCT, I think you'll find you will lose some bottom end. OOPS, sorry, just saw previous post by Nismoid. Every tuner I have spoken to recommends keeping it.

Edited by skylinecouple
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was under the impression you couldn't run an adjustable cam gear on the stock VCT cam from a RB25. You needed either an RB20 cam or an aftermarket cam which isn't made for VCT.

The VCT cam has a bolt that runs through the middle of it, non VCT cams have four bolts on the outside.

Edited by PM-R33
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
I was under the impression you couldn't run an adjustable cam gear on the stock VCT cam from a RB25. You needed either an RB20 cam or an aftermarket cam which isn't made for VCT.

The VCT cam has a bolt that runs through the middle of it, non VCT cams have four bolts on the outside.

+1

RB25 intake cam does not accept the same gear as the exhaust. Locating pin is smaller also

ps13_jason Explorer

ps13_jason

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh the pin is smaller and has one bolt through the middle...

hmmm well my option is different cam or stay vct?

so should vct timing be difficult to tune with an adaptronic ecu?

thought there would be few ppl with adjustable cam gears but obviously not until aftermarket cams?

dont think i want cams yet...

hmmm decisions...

thanks for feedback!

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
yeh the pin is smaller and has one bolt through the middle...

hmmm well my option is different cam or stay vct?

so should vct timing be difficult to tune with an adaptronic ecu?

thought there would be few ppl with adjustable cam gears but obviously not until aftermarket cams?

dont think i want cams yet...

hmmm decisions...

thanks for feedback!

Yes, the adaptronic can run the VCT and it can be tuned to turn on at any time. Just use one of the Auxilary Outputs and switch it to RPM based. Have it trigger the VCT at whatever RPM you want. Normal is 1500-4500.

You can put just the exhaust cam gear on if you like. You will notice gains from increasing the lobe separation by a couple of degrees anyway.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

VCT is off at idle, you need to set the ecu to turn VCT on at about 1300rpm then switch it off again after the engine reaches 3000 - 5000rpm (depends on engine configuration) & switch it off when the engine reach's a certain boost pressure - every car is different and its up to your tuner to decide the switch on and off points for VCT when tuning.

if you set VCT up correctly you can tell the difference.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
VCT is off at idle, you need to set the ecu to turn VCT on at about 1300rpm then switch it off again after the engine reaches 3000 - 5000rpm (depends on engine configuration) & switch it off when the engine reach's a certain boost pressure - every car is different and its up to your tuner to decide the switch on and off points for VCT when tuning.

if you set VCT up correctly you can tell the difference.

yup with stock cams on @1250 and off @4700rpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...