Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great build up risking, that thing is gonna be mean once it's done! Not sure if this will help but I came accross this thread on gtr.co.uk and thought it you could use it for tips or hints or whatever as this guy is building a space frame r32 aswell, and there's always more than one way to skin a cat. It's a good read :merli:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/74968-neverending-project-x.html

Cheers, Mat.

That one on GTR.uk is a bit odd.

His gone to some extreme lengths and its still based on a floor pan chassis. He may as well have thrown it away and started with a proper space frame like i have.

The way his cut out the firewall and floor section is not really right.

Its a good bit of gear by the looks of it but id have done it properly with a full space frame chassis.

post-20349-1248937701_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1248937755_thumb.jpg

slight update,

Jay and I looked over engine locations today,

God damn its not going to be easy. The tail shaft will only be 12 inchs long if that and the dry sump pump etc is going to have to swing off the other side of the engine now. Due to the engine being mounted so far back and offset to the pass side nothing will be simple.

Its going to have to go in through the windscreen opening as the intrusion bars etc all get in the way and the floor will have a X in it so no entry there.

Small incidental things are going to become a real nightmare soon. intercooler, radiator, diff coolers etc etc

the space is more than ample its the ammount of shit I have in there thats the problem!

Im looking to swap the cars around in the next few days and take it to somewhere bigger.

Its almost time to try and mount an RB26 into a hole thats way to small.

yeah about that,,,,,,

Its a little tight but very do able. Im working on it a little slower than normal with bostons car here as well but got a few things done last night.

Ive now got the fuel system sorted as well. and a new dry sump tank.

Im considereing making it left hand drive too, but not sure as yet,

Short shafts are okay besides the uni joint angles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...