Pre Turbo Install

[mickr33]

Hi people. Well the slide hi-flow is now out and it is now time for the 3076 to go in. In regards to the studs in the standard manifold is the best thing to get them out with is some CRC and vice grips? Also should i change the standard manifold or will this be adequate. Finally the water line that goes from the turbo to the rear of the engine, how do you get this sucker off? Any help would be appreciated. Thank's

[R31Nismoid]

Studs - you are more than likely to break a couple mate. CRC them a few times during the day and leave overnight to give you the best chance at getting them all out

Stock manifold is fine

And water line - with a bit of elbow grease, again perhaps CRC overnight.

[mickr33]

Thank's for the reply. In regards to the water line it was more aimed at where do i take it off from as i cant see where it ends up at once it goes behind the engine and dissapears from site.

[krzysiu]

Standard manifold is fine. You will need a 10mm spacer though to clear the housing from touching the manifold. Im putting this turbo on my car soon

[paulr33]

check the bearing type and make sure you change the oil feed to suit

[mickr33]

The fun continues as i have now removed the manifold because i noticed four were broken. Is it fairly easy to take the broken one's out with the right tool's or should i call in someone. In regards to spacer plate and oil lines the turbo will be coming in full bolt on kit form (spacer plate, oil and water lines nuts, studs, gaskets etc).

[rb2?]

IMO get rid of the waterlines, i dont see a point for them, when there's hot water running through them all the time.

As for where it ends up is behind the intake manifold, undo the 2 bolts on the head, if the hose doesnt come off you can always chop a bit hoes off, rust normally cramps it and its hard to remove.

[R31Nismoid]

What do you mean you dont see a point for the waterlines...? The turbo is water cooled!!!

As for the broken studs - call someone in. Its not that expensive and there are mobile guys in each state

Try get your others out first though, likely more will crack.

[Moodles2]

Water is about 86c, turbo operates alot higher than that. Even hot water is going to cool it.

[rb2?]

That cleared my miss thoughts, ive been running an rb25 turbo without them for a while, guess it couldnt be good for the ceramic wheel..

[NYTSKY]

To get at the turbo line at the back of the engine.

Take of the driver side rocker cover, you should be able to get your hand down the back with that removed.

[mickr33]

Thank's for all your imput guys. As far as the bolt for the water line behind the block do i have to really take the driver side rocket cover off. I have to admit though i've tried about five times now and cannot even get the spanner onto it.

[mickr33]

Got the rear bolt off. All i did was undo the two heater hoses off, put them aside then i was able to get a spanner onto it. All good for now.

[geraus]

Also make sure your oil lines are correct because using stock oil line is a no no. When i had my hypergear installed bymyself... i didnt get told to install a aftermarket oil line so therefore it blew up. So make sure u get an oil line.

[R31Nismoid]

That cleared my miss thoughts, ive been running an rb25 turbo without them for a while, guess it couldnt be good for the ceramic wheel..

Id be more worried about the core.

A ball bearing turbo by nature requires less oil to lube the bearings. The offset to this less oil means there is less cooling going on.

Hence ball bearing turbos are ALL water cooled.