Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is the answer from GCG (for my RB25DET - may be different for M35):

1) We use the factory bearing housing and modify it, we do not use a Garrett "cartridge" as such to replace the internals.

2) Exhaust wheel = Stage 3 T3

3) Compressor wheel = T04E

4) A/R is same as the factory housings that come on the vehicle from Nissan, we do not modify, or touch any of the external housings on this unit.

As we are the only people who can build these units in ball bearing, we don't like to give away too much detail, i'm sure you can understand.

Regards,

Michael Ramsay

Internal Sales

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cool, thanks for that Kiwi :P

Out of interest what model of Garrett (?) turbo is fitted to your RB25DET?

I was wondering if they were the same model that the M35 adopted.

I'm getting a bit excited in anticipation of my GCG High-flow :P

No the S1 Stagea turbo has a T3 flange but that may be the only thing in common. It doesn't seem to have a Garrett code on it, from memory it just says "Nissan" but its .40 A/R . The S2 had the neo engine with the GTT turbo with a bigger exhaust housing and the M35 as pictured earlier has M24N stamped on it as well as .60 A/R

Jetwreck has given me a rundown on what hassles I need to go through to remove the turbo and I'm not so sure I want to do it myself lol too much that can potentially go wrong and many things I can potentially break ;)

I think I might use a reputable workshop to do the dirty work, anyone got any suggestions of a workshop to approach for a estimate on doing it.

The turbo will probably be a week to two to get turned around, hopefully a workshop that can safely push the stagea to the side out of the way until the new turbo is ready to go back in would be ideal. I don't want to be getting the poor girl tray trucked all around the joint.

I get my spare turbo tomorrow. Yah. :)

let the learning begin.

Woo hoo! Sounds good.

If you havn't done anything with it by the time I ready for high-flow I may be calling on you :P

I was thinking about what you said and I'm leaning towards the turbo out & in in one day, especially if I can line the exhaust up at the same time. Would be the easiest way, then it's off to SAS for a tune.

I may have secured an ECU, just waiting to confirm they have a VQ25DET not a VQ25DE, considering it's an Australian wreckers I highly doubt they have a VQ25DE Stagea Half-Cut so it should be right.

  • 2 weeks later...
Woo hoo! Sounds good.

If you havn't done anything with it by the time I ready for high-flow I may be calling on you ;)

I was thinking about what you said and I'm leaning towards the turbo out & in in one day, especially if I can line the exhaust up at the same time. Would be the easiest way, then it's off to SAS for a tune.

I may have secured an ECU, just waiting to confirm they have a VQ25DET not a VQ25DE, considering it's an Australian wreckers I highly doubt they have a VQ25DE Stagea Half-Cut so it should be right.

were you right? :D
  • 9 years later...

Does anybody on here have a turbo charger for sale for VQ25DET  Garrett M24N  mines stuffed and has a cracked exhaust casing.  Was about to get it rebuilt but they discovered this. 

Thanks!

5 hours ago, barnze said:

Does anybody on here have a turbo charger for sale for VQ25DET  Garrett M24N  mines stuffed and has a cracked exhaust casing.  Was about to get it rebuilt but they discovered this. 

Thanks!

Have you tried Joe Kyle? Or the four or five Nissan wreckers in Auckland?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...